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pro- duction is pinot noir, and the Russian River Valley bottling accounts for at least 70 per- cent of the pinot. In lesser years, it is Farrell’s only pinot. This bottling is nationally distrib- uted. The vineyard-designated wines are usually available only to selected restaurant accounts and to mailing-list and tasting room customers. The elegant tasting room in archi- tect Rich McCrea’s beautiful stone, tile, and wood building is open by advance appoint- ment; 707-473-2900. A gloria ferrer champagne caves Sonoma, California Gloria Ferrer is the American wine


itself. Boutique winery: A “term used in the USA and Australia to describe a small winery making quality wines.”B Brut: The driest form of champagne or other sparkling wine. Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, and Firearms (BATF): A U.S. government agency that regulated the American wine industry until 2003. Historically, it was associated either with the Internal Revenue Service as part of the Depart- ment of the Treasury (DOT) or with the Department of Justice (DOJ). The Homeland Security Act of 2002 transferred BATF’s tax collection and reg- ulatory functions to a new


cider, beer, spirits, and cheap fortified wines; and the failure of Prohibition. Without this explanation, the prospective winemaker, wholesaler, or retailer never could fathom the extensive back- ground checks on their personal and financial qualifications, the "tied- house" rules and business practice restrictions that are unique to the alco- holic beverage industries, or the mass of red tape required to ship wine from one state to another. During the course of my career, I have witnessed the development of an authentic American wine culture. I had the privilege of


, 166. See also specific AVAs American Wine (Quimme), 138 American wines and viticulture: early manuals and guides, 231, 243 – 245, 247; nineteenth-century midwest, 231 – 233. See also California wines and viticulture; Missouri wines and viticulture American Wines (Schoonmaker), 128, 165 Amerine, Maynard, 135 index 262 / Index Amontillado Sherries, 76, 80 Ampuis, 28, 29 – 30 Anderson, Burton, 92 Anderson Valley Zinfandels, 172 Angels’ Visits (Darlington), 172 – 173, 173 – 174 Anne de Beaujeu, 52 Aramon, 6, 10 Arbois rosé, 225 – 226 Argilos plateau, 87 Ariadne

production should be both small-scale and local, and he was moved to prophesy thus: I foresee a plethora of small local vintages, some good, some mediocre, some perfectly dread- ful, out of which will arise in future some great names and great traditions of American wine. I foresee the day when the average American home will be able to enjoy good beer and good wine produced in the neighborhood at moderate prices. . . . And better still, I fore- see that, with this change in the drinking habits of our people, may come a change of tem- per and of temperament, a less furious

North Carolina in figure 165 and the Old Southern Tea Room menu in figure 193.) The quantity of wine ephemera is almost overwhelm- ing because the paper trail covers so many subjects, but one category that all wine collectors must deal with is the ubiquitous wine pamphlet. The obvious purpose of such pamphlets is to promote wine drinking or the wines of a particular vineyard, but some also promote the viticul- ture of a region. American viticultural history is com- plicated by the many localized efforts to produce good American wine, some of which were highly

.”22 Olmo is mildly upbeat about its quality however, especially in blends, suggesting that “this general type of wine should continue to be useful in Burgundy type blends, adding excellent high color, tannin, and body so characteristic of these varieties.” After more than three decades of confusion on California soil, Petite Sirah was progres- sively outed in popular press, starting in the late thirties and early forties. The American wine writer Frank Schoonmaker was the fi rst to have distinguished what was being grown in California as something distinct from

the Martini wines, which had heretofore not been marketed under their own labels. One of the Napa vintner’s best wines, in Schoonmaker’s mind, was his Mountain Zinfandel, grown at the Monte Rosso Vineyard in the hills above Sonoma Valley.8 Just before America entered the war, Schoonmaker published his American Wines. In it he wrote that “Zinfandels from the upland vineyards of Napa and the two faces of zin / 105 Sonoma Counties are among the pleasantest table wines of the world.” 9 Schoonmaker had gotten a small glimpse of the other face of Zin. In 1964 he

popularity and style that California’s own va- rietal had undergone between 1970 and 2000. The most important American wine facts of the 1970s were the rise in per capita consumption of wine in this country and the explosion of interest in fine table wine, whether from Europe or from California. Together these his- toric tendencies help to define the modern U.S. wine revolution in its simplest terms. California Zinfandel rode the crest of this revolutionary wave. For an important segment of the American drinking public, wine was something of a fad in the ’70s. Per capita


which the wine arose. The Napa Valley began its modern rise to prominence in the eyes of the wine world through a surprising event: the legendary 1976 blind tasting of French and American wines in Paris, arranged as a marketing ploy by English wine merchant Steven Spurrier. In that tasting, Warren Winiarski’s Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 1973 Cabernet Sauvignon was judged the best of the reds. It won out over four prominent French Châteaux, including Mouton Roth- schild (second), and five other American wines. (A Chateau Montelena Chardonnay was picked as the best of the