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t e d George Husmann autobiography, transcript, n.d. “The Husmann Family,” transcript, n.d. Percy Morgan scrapbook Wine Institute, San Francisco Charles Crawford, “Vinicultural Research and the E. & J. Gallo Winery,” n.p. Irving McKee, “Historic Winegrowers of Southern California, 1850 – 1890,” n.d. [c. 1950?] Newspapers and Specialized Periodicals Agricultural History Alta California, San Francisco American Fruit Grower American Journal of Enology and Viticulture American Wine Society Journal California Farmer Food Sciences Food Technology Fruit Products


xiii This book tells the story of American wine through the lives of thirteen people — twelve men and one woman — who made a difference in that history, or who represent a significant change in the direction of things, or both. The more recent names are probably familiar to all who take an inter- est in wine — Mondavi and Gallo certainly are — but other names will be unknown. To give them their deserved recognition is one of my aims in writ- ing this book. I start with Jean Jacques (or John James) Dufour, a Swiss, who did not make the first commercial wine

the shorter chapters of the book is titled. As Schoonmaker later said, it took him many years to realize just how incom- plete The Complete Wine Book was.11 But it was far more “complete” than the ordinary American’s understanding of the subject then. It was also nota- ble for giving prominence to American wines, at the same time deploring the bad practices of American wine making, especially the dependence on inferior varieties of grape and on borrowed names — port, sherry, burgundy, and so on. Tom Marvel, according to Schoonmaker himself, was responsible for

Agricultural Experiment Station, is based on extensive surveys done in the 1930s. ———. California Wine Grapes: Composition and Quality of Their Musts and Wines. California Agricultural Experiment Station Bulletin 794, Davis, Calif., 1963. An update of the pre- ceding 1944 work. Baldy, Marian. The University Wine Course. San Francisco: Wine Appreciation Guild, 1993. Balzer, Robert L. California’s Best Wines. Los Angeles: Ward Ritchie Press, 1948. Concentrates on a few premium producers. 209 SELECT BIBLIOGRAPHY >>><<< Blue, Anthony Dias. American Wine. Garden City, N

. Lambert, G., and J. Kashiwaga. Soil Survey of Napa County, California. Washington, D.C.: U.S. Department of Agriculture, Soil Conservation Service, 1978. (An updated 1999 version of the soils map, digitized and revised, is available at ssur_data.html.) F Swinchatt,Winemaker's Dance 6/4/04 4:17 PM Page 213 Laube, James. California Wine. New York: Wine Spectator Press, 1999. Lukacs, Paul. American Vintage: The Rise of American Wine. Boston:Houghton Mi›in, 2000. Pomerol, Charles, ed. The Wines and Winelands of France: Geological Journeys. Orléans

enthusiasts of French, Italian, Spanish, and American wines. Special thanks go to Blake Edgar and Rose Vekony at the Univer- sity of California Press and Erika Bűky for her unflagging care in editing.

Pennsylvania Edward Antill to Dr. Sonmans, 31 January 1768 Huntington Library Robert Boiling, "Pieces Concerning Vineyards" Matthew Keller Papers J. De Barth Shorb Papers Benjamin D. Wilson Papers Library of Congress Thomas Jefferson Papers George Morgan Papers National Agricultural Library Prince Family Papers Royal Society of Arts, London Guard Book; Journal Book; Minutes on Colonies and Trade; MS Transactions Newspapers and Specialized Periodicals Agricultural History Alta California The American Agriculturist The American Farmer The American Wine Press and Mineral Water

Center, Austin: Alfred A. Knopf papers Wine Institute Library, San Francisco: Committee Reports Stabilization Files Transcripts of Hearings Wine Institute Historical Records NEWSPAPERS AND SPECIALIZED JOURNALS American Journal of Enology and Viticulture American Wine Society Journal California Agriculture California Grape Grower (afterward Wines and Vines) California Grower (afterward Wines and Vines) California Journal of Development California Wine Review (afterward Wine Review) Eastern Grape Grower and Winery News (afterward Vineyard and Winery Management) Fruit

Eunice Wait, Wines and Vines of Cali- fornia (Berkeley: Howell-North Books, 1973 [orig. 1889]); Tom Marvel and Frank Schoonmaker, American Wines (New York: Duell, Sloan and Pearce, 1941); Bob Thompson, Notes on a California Cellarbook (New York: William Morrow, 1988); and Robert Gorman, Gorman on Premium California Wines (Berkeley: Ten Speed Press, 1975). Vintners Club: Fourteen Years of Wine Tastings 1973–1987, ed. Mary-Ellen McNeil-Draper (San Francisco: Vintners’ Press, 1988), is a valuable window on con- temporaneous assessments of pinot noir, as are pinot

Oregon and the Okanagan, especially in warm years. Faced with diªerences of these sorts, many observers, including American wine- makers, have concluded that the best defense is to avoid comparisons entirely. “We are not trying to make Burgundy,” says Saintsbury’s David Graves. “We don’t smoke Gauloises, and the French make the best French wine in the world.” And Joe Heitz, who dabbled a bit in pinot noir before getting focused on cabernet sauvignon, told an interviewer in the late 1970s that America, even then, made good pinots. “Just because it doesn’t taste like