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Preface ix Acknowledgments xix Introduction 1 PART ONE. PRINCIPLES 1 The Solution Problem 19 2 Creating the Conditions for Graceful Aging 31 3 Building Structure: The Basic Tool Kit 43 4 The Seven Functions of Oak 58 5 Vineyard Enology: The Power of Showing Up 68 6 The Vicinal Diphenol Cascade: Red Wine’s Defi ning Reaction 82 7 Redox Redux: Measuring Wine’s Oxygen Uptake Capacity 91 8 Speculations on Minerality 102 9 Winemaking at High pH 111 10 Integrated Brettanomyces Management 120 11 Harmony and Astringency: Nice and Rough 131 Contents viii

259 Further Reading Although it’s easy to turn up home winemaking sites on the Internet—just type “winemak- ers,” “winemaking,” or “home winemaking” into your computer’s search engine—you may well find the information in conventional printed works to be more accessible. The following volumes are some of the many worth consulting. Adventures on the Wine Route: A Wine Buyer’s Tour of France, 25th anniversary ed., by Kermit Lynch. New York: Farrar, Straus and Giroux, 2013. American Vintage: The Rise of American Wine, by Paul Lukacs. New York: Houghton Mifflin

309 Unlike any other agricultural enterprise or type of cooking, winemaking pro- ceeds at an incredibly slow pace seldom apprehended by those who have not participated in it. Imagine a baker waiting half a decade for his wheat, then placing it in the oven for years and waiting an equal time for it to cool in order to serve it. Winegrowers must anticipate and heavily invest in market trends projected many years into the future. The Postmodern Mandala, shown opposite, is a circular calendar that depicts the sequence of winemaking activities by overlaying the

344 About the Author Clark Smith  is one of California’s most widely respected winemakers. Besides making wines for Diamond Ridge Vineyards and his own WineSmith brand, he has served the winemaking community for four decades as consultant, inventor, author, musician, and instructor. His popular class on fundamentals of wine chemistry and monthly column “The Postmodern Winemaker” in  Wines and Vines  magazine are industry hallmarks. Founding winemaker for R. H. Phillips in the 1980s, he went on to establish Vinovation, the world’s larg- est wine production

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Postmodern Winemaking The publisher gratefully acknowledges the generous support of the General Endowment Fund of the University of California Press Foundation. Postmodern Winemaking Rethinking the Modern Science of an Ancient Craft Clark Smith U N I V E R S I T Y O F C A L I F O R N I A P R E S S Berkeley • Los Angeles • London University of California Press, one of the most distinguished university presses in the United States, enriches lives around the world by advancing scholarship in the humanities, social sciences, and natural sciences. Its

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Foreword by Patrick J. Comiskey■ix Introduction: Why Terroir Matters■1 1 The Lure and Promise of Terroir■7 2 History and Defi nitions■32 3 Soil: The Terre in Terroir■59 4 Climate: Limits and Variations■92 5 Grapevines: Bringing Terroir to Life■122 6 Winemaking: The Human Element in Terroir■151 7 Sensory: Validating Terroir■187 8 Marketing: Terroir for Sale■223 9 The Future of Terroir■260 10 Postscriptum■291 Acknowledgments: Nancy G. Freeman■294 Acknowledgments: John Buechsenstein■295 Bibliography■297 Credits for Reprinted Materials■305 Index■313

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Contents List of Illustrations and Tables xi Introduction. Real Wine, Real Enjoyment 1 Part One. SuCCeSS witH reDS anD wHiteS 1 Grapes and Other Ingredients 13 2 The Ins and Outs of a Home Winery 24 3 When Red Means Go 40 4 Then a Miracle Happens 52 5 A Pressing Engagement 64 6 The Quiet Stage 75 7 Watchful Waiting 87 8 Bottling and Beyond 97 9 Vive la Différence! 107 10 Clear and Clean 117 Part One Recap. Winemaking Step by Step 125 Part Two. making even better wine 11 Bringing in the Yeasts 137 12 A D0zen Classic Styles 148 13 Getting a Grip on

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AUTHENTIC WINE This page intentionally left blank AUTHENTIC WINE Toward Natural and Sustainable Winemaking Jamie Goode and Sam Harrop, MW UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA PRESS Berkeley Los Angeles London University of California Press, one of the most distinguished university presses in the United States, enriches lives around the world by advancing scholarship in the humanities, social sciences, and natural sciences. Its activities are supported by the UC Press Foundation and by philanthropic contributions from individuals and institutions. For more