Enologists.” Wines and Vines 40 (August 1959): 31–32.
———. “The Response of Wine to Aging, Part IV: The Influence of Variety.” Wines and
Vines 31 (May 1950): 28–31.
———. “Some Comments on WineinAmerica.” Wine and Food 36 (Winter 1942):
———. “Some Facts and Fancies about Winemaking and Wines.” Report to the Wine
Institute Technical Advisory Committee Meeting, 13 May 1955. Copy in the Roy Brady
papers, University of California, Davis, Shields Library.
———. “Wine Production Problems of California Grapes, Part I.” Wine Review 17 (January
exhibit pleasing orga-
noleptic characteristics, subtle, nuanced, and varying according to the terroir they are grown in. The
study of a terroir requires analysis and knowledge of both climate and soil.
FROM THOMAS PINNEY, A HISTORY OF WINEINAMERICA:
FROM THE BEGINNINGS TO PROHIBITION (VOLUME I,
APPENDIX 2, 1989)
THE LANGUAGE OF WINE IN ENGLISH
One cannot talk or write long about wine in English without discovering that the language is weak
in words for the activities of vine growing and winemaking. The solution is either to Frenchify one’s
46 ■ C H A P T E R
though he remains unknown.1
But who first put California wine on the map? And did so in a lasting way?
To those who have studied the question, the answer seems to be a German
immigrant named Charles Kohler, whose life story is characterized by many
of the elements that mark the history of wineinAmerica. In the first place,
he was a German, and Germans have had more to do with bringing about
the culture of wine in this country than any other nationality. In the second
place, he did not come from a wine-growing region; neither did the Germans
who founded wine
the distribution of wineinAmerica produced
loud howls of protest from his competitors. The Federal Trade Commission
looked into the charges and found, in a decision not issued until 1976, that
Gallo was indeed guilty of what it called “exclusionary marketing policies,” or
in plain words, of squeezing out the competition by whatever means offered.
The standard method was simply to get a financial hold on the distributor
and then tell him what to do: hire Gallo men as salesmen and sell nothing
but Gallo wine.38 If he failed to obey, he would lose the Gallo
being built as Prohibition came to an end, and the several small
wineries in the Valley — Souverain and the rest — were all established in the
1940s. But the Mondavi Winery was certainly a new thing, ambitiously con-
ceived and strikingly different from anything else on the scene. In retrospect,
it may be seen as a symbol of the great change that was overtaking the for-
tunes of wineinAmerica.
For whatever reasons — there is no doubt that they are many — by the de-
cade of the 1960s Americans had begun to drink more table wine, to appre-
ciate quality in wine
Department approved them, saying that “under existing law,
[B]ATF can only deny labeling statements if they are false or misleading”;
these were neither, because all they did was to direct consumers to
sources of information.44 The Wine Institute heralded this decision as an
“historic breakthrough . . . a defining new chapter in the evolution of fed-
eral policy towards wineinAmerica.”45 Observers viewed this decision
as opening the door to the use of labels to make similar claims for all
alcoholic beverages—and as a clear win for the industry: “lobbyists 1,
Champagne Trade in England
History of the Wine Trade in England
History of WineinAmerica (Pinney), 232,
Hitchcock, Alfred, 65
Hofherr, Jim and Pat, 239
Hôtel Beau Rivage, 28
Hotel Madrid, 77
Hotel Schwan, 110
Hotel St. Bernard, 258
Howell Mountain, 167, 213, 214
Hugot, Hubert, 69
Hundred Glories of French Cooking
( Courtine), 11
Husmann, George, 165, 231, 237, 244
Husmann, Johann, 234
ice wine, 161 – 162
In Search of Wine (Berry), 204
India Joze, 157, 163
Inglenook, 129, 130, 139
The fact that one might get spoiled wine if one ordered it in restaurants partly ac-
counts for the neglect of wineinAmerican life. But only partly: the main reason would
seem to be that many—perhaps most—Americans had very little familiarity with any
wine at all, and practically none with American wine. Mrak’s report about the indiffer-
ence to wine even among such well-fed and well-traveled professionals as one would see
at a gathering of American doctors is confirmed by other contemporary evidence. A
glance at the catalogs of wine merchants and
from Haraszthy to the Beginnings of
Prohibition,” in The Book of California Wine, ed. Davis Muscatine, Maynard
Amerine, and Bob Thompson (Berkeley: University of California Press, 1984).
11 Thomas Pinney, A History of WineinAmerica: From Prohibition to the Present
(Berkeley: University of California Press, 2005), p. 2.
12 “Prohibition,” in The Oxford Companion to Wine, p. 552.
13 Cyril Penn, “What Is Quality?” Wine Business Monthly 8 (May 2001): 11.
14 Ibid., p. 12.
15 Ibid., p. 13.
18 Ibid., p. 13.
19 Kermit Lynch, Adventures on the Wine Route: A