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Enologists.” Wines and Vines 40 (August 1959): 31–32. ———. “The Response of Wine to Aging, Part IV: The Influence of Variety.” Wines and Vines 31 (May 1950): 28–31. ———. “Some Comments on Wine in America.” Wine and Food 36 (Winter 1942): 192– 99. ———. “Some Facts and Fancies about Winemaking and Wines.” Report to the Wine Institute Technical Advisory Committee Meeting, 13 May 1955. Copy in the Roy Brady papers, University of California, Davis, Shields Library. ———. “Wine Production Problems of California Grapes, Part I.” Wine Review 17 (January 1949): 18–22. ———. “Wine

, Frederick, 146 Hess Collection, 213, 235 Hewitt, William, 155 Higgins, Mike, 203 Hilgard, Eugene, 41–42, 110, 273n12; on Carignane, 24, 46; on Grenache, 44; on Marsanne and Roussanne, 46–47; on Mourvèdre (Mataro), 22, 45; on Syrah, 42–43 Hin, W. M., 75 A History of Wine in America (Pinney), 39, 62 Hock, Stan, 10–11, 107 Hoenisch, Dick, 172–73 Hollister, 171 Holmes, Jim, 187, 194 home winemaking: American Rhône producers as home winemakers, 118–19, 124, 145, 187; Associated Vintners’ wines, 181, 283n8; Prohibition and, 54, 62–63 Horse Heaven Hills, 179, 194 Horton

exhibit pleasing orga- noleptic characteristics, subtle, nuanced, and varying according to the terroir they are grown in. The study of a terroir requires analysis and knowledge of both climate and soil. FROM THOMAS PINNEY, A HISTORY OF WINE IN AMERICA: FROM THE BEGINNINGS TO PROHIBITION (VOLUME I, APPENDIX 2, 1989) THE LANGUAGE OF WINE IN ENGLISH One cannot talk or write long about wine in English without discovering that the language is weak in words for the activities of vine growing and winemaking. The solution is either to Frenchify one’s 46 ■ C H A P T E R

, though he remains unknown.1 But who first put California wine on the map? And did so in a lasting way? To those who have studied the question, the answer seems to be a German immigrant named Charles Kohler, whose life story is characterized by many of the elements that mark the history of wine in America. In the first place, he was a German, and Germans have had more to do with bringing about the culture of wine in this country than any other nationality. In the second place, he did not come from a wine-growing region; neither did the Germans who founded wine

the distribution of wine in America produced loud howls of protest from his competitors. The Federal Trade Commission looked into the charges and found, in a decision not issued until 1976, that Gallo was indeed guilty of what it called “exclusionary marketing policies,” or in plain words, of squeezing out the competition by whatever means offered. The standard method was simply to get a financial hold on the distributor and then tell him what to do: hire Gallo men as salesmen and sell nothing but Gallo wine.38 If he failed to obey, he would lose the Gallo

being built as Prohibition came to an end, and the several small wineries in the Valley — Souverain and the rest — were all established in the 1940s. But the Mondavi Winery was certainly a new thing, ambitiously con- ceived and strikingly different from anything else on the scene. In retrospect, it may be seen as a symbol of the great change that was overtaking the for- tunes of wine in America. For whatever reasons — there is no doubt that they are many — by the de- cade of the 1960s Americans had begun to drink more table wine, to appre- ciate quality in wine

Department approved them, saying that “under existing law, [B]ATF can only deny labeling statements if they are false or misleading”; these were neither, because all they did was to direct consumers to sources of information.44 The Wine Institute heralded this decision as an “historic breakthrough . . . a defining new chapter in the evolution of fed- eral policy towards wine in America.”45 Observers viewed this decision as opening the door to the use of labels to make similar claims for all alcoholic beverages—and as a clear win for the industry: “lobbyists 1, public

Champagne Trade in England (Simon), 250 History of the Wine Trade in England (Simon), 250 History of Wine in America (Pinney), 232, 233 Hitchcock, Alfred, 65 Hofherr, Jim and Pat, 239 Hofkeller, 126 Homer, 83 Hôtel Beau Rivage, 28 Hotel Madrid, 77 Hotel Schwan, 110 Hotel St. Bernard, 258 Howell Mountain, 167, 213, 214 Hugot, Hubert, 69 Hundred Glories of French Cooking ( Courtine), 11 Husmann, George, 165, 231, 237, 244 Husmann, Johann, 234 ice wine, 161 – 162 In Search of Wine (Berry), 204 India Joze, 157, 163 Ingelheim, 112 Inglenook, 129, 130, 139 Institut National

wine business.” The fact that one might get spoiled wine if one ordered it in restaurants partly ac- counts for the neglect of wine in American life. But only partly: the main reason would seem to be that many—perhaps most—Americans had very little familiarity with any wine at all, and practically none with American wine. Mrak’s report about the indiffer- ence to wine even among such well-fed and well-traveled professionals as one would see at a gathering of American doctors is confirmed by other contemporary evidence. A glance at the catalogs of wine merchants and

from Haraszthy to the Beginnings of Prohibition,” in The Book of California Wine, ed. Davis Muscatine, Maynard Amerine, and Bob Thompson (Berkeley: University of California Press, 1984). 11 Thomas Pinney, A History of Wine in America: From Prohibition to the Present (Berkeley: University of California Press, 2005), p. 2. 12 “Prohibition,” in The Oxford Companion to Wine, p. 552. 13 Cyril Penn, “What Is Quality?” Wine Business Monthly 8 (May 2001): 11. 14 Ibid., p. 12. 15 Ibid., p. 13. 16 Ibid. 17 Ibid. 18 Ibid., p. 13. 19 Kermit Lynch, Adventures on the Wine Route: A