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Enologists.” Wines and Vines 40 (August 1959): 31–32. ———. “The Response of Wine to Aging, Part IV: The Influence of Variety.” Wines and Vines 31 (May 1950): 28–31. ———. “Some Comments on Wine in America.” Wine and Food 36 (Winter 1942): 192– 99. ———. “Some Facts and Fancies about Winemaking and Wines.” Report to the Wine Institute Technical Advisory Committee Meeting, 13 May 1955. Copy in the Roy Brady papers, University of California, Davis, Shields Library. ———. “Wine Production Problems of California Grapes, Part I.” Wine Review 17 (January 1949): 18–22. ———. “Wine

Vineyards. New York: Harper & Brothers, 1869. . "Wine in America." Harper's Magazine 41 (June 1870): 106-14. Fletcher, S. W. "A History of Fruit Growing in Virginia." In Proceedings of the 33 th Annual Meeting of the Virginia Horticultural Society. Staunton, Va., 1932. Flint, Timothy. Recollections of the Last Ten Years. Boston: Cummings, Hilliard, 1826. Fontaine, John. The Journal of John Fontaine. Ed. Edward Porter Alexander. Williamsburg, Va.: Colonial Williamsburg Foundation, 1972. Force, Peter, ed. Tracts Relating Principally to the Origin, Settlement, and Progress

as the fastest- growing varietal wine in American markets between 2006 and 2011, with increased sales at all price points. Wine imports to the States from Germany also nearly tripled between 1999 and 2007, rising from 1.2 to 3.2 million cases, of which Riesling was a substantial share. As early as 1990, Washington surpassed California as the area of greatest Riesling pro- duction in the States, and it is now home to the world’s largest Riesling producer, the formida- ble Chateau Ste. Michelle. The suitability of certain varieties to certain geographic

wine business.” The fact that one might get spoiled wine if one ordered it in restaurants partly ac- counts for the neglect of wine in American life. But only partly: the main reason would seem to be that many—perhaps most—Americans had very little familiarity with any wine at all, and practically none with American wine. Mrak’s report about the indiffer- ence to wine even among such well-fed and well-traveled professionals as one would see at a gathering of American doctors is confirmed by other contemporary evidence. A glance at the catalogs of wine merchants and

Champagne Trade in England (Simon), 250 History of the Wine Trade in England (Simon), 250 History of Wine in America (Pinney), 232, 233 Hitchcock, Alfred, 65 Hofherr, Jim and Pat, 239 Hofkeller, 126 Homer, 83 Hôtel Beau Rivage, 28 Hotel Madrid, 77 Hotel Schwan, 110 Hotel St. Bernard, 258 Howell Mountain, 167, 213, 214 Hugot, Hubert, 69 Hundred Glories of French Cooking ( Courtine), 11 Husmann, George, 165, 231, 237, 244 Husmann, Johann, 234 ice wine, 161 – 162 In Search of Wine (Berry), 204 India Joze, 157, 163 Ingelheim, 112 Inglenook, 129, 130, 139 Institut National

from Haraszthy to the Beginnings of Prohibition,” in The Book of California Wine, ed. Davis Muscatine, Maynard Amerine, and Bob Thompson (Berkeley: University of California Press, 1984). 11 Thomas Pinney, A History of Wine in America: From Prohibition to the Present (Berkeley: University of California Press, 2005), p. 2. 12 “Prohibition,” in The Oxford Companion to Wine, p. 552. 13 Cyril Penn, “What Is Quality?” Wine Business Monthly 8 (May 2001): 11. 14 Ibid., p. 12. 15 Ibid., p. 13. 16 Ibid. 17 Ibid. 18 Ibid., p. 13. 19 Kermit Lynch, Adventures on the Wine Route: A

the Wine Enthusiast and Wine & Spirits not far behind in interest and infl uence.3 In September 2003 Wine Spectator columnist Matt Kramer, author of several infl uen- tial books on wine, wrote a column called “The Next Really Big Red,” in which he made a bold prediction: “The most exciting wine in America today,” he claimed, “is Syrah. I’d love to say that it’s Pinot Noir, but I cannot tell a lie. It’s Syrah that’s slated for stardom.”4 236 • I R R A T I O N A L E X U B E R A N C E It was, he said, more than just a question of its being popular. “Really Big

plau- sible that some of California’s early Rhône variety producers may have drawn from Grenache inspired by the passions of Walter Clore. Concurrent with these eff orts, Washington’s potential for grape growing was being assessed, starting in the mid-1960s when Leon Adams, a wine journalist from the Bay Area, came to Washington to evaluate the region. Adams was researching his seminal publication Wines in America, its inaugural edition published in 1973, the most compre- hensive look at American winemaking since Prohibition. A small number of local wines were

that the 2003 diplomatic stand-off cost the French wine industry $124 million.11 With high taxes and labor pushing up costs, bankers or management consultants might advise France to take the high road and leave the pro- duction of bulk wine to low-cost producers in Chile, Argentina, Aus- tralia, and South Africa. The whirling vortex of cute and clear English- language labels and large marketing budgets has largely passed over France. French wine in America has often been marketed—if at all—on the strength of its tradition and prestige. That strategy works at the

, though he remains unknown.1 But who first put California wine on the map? And did so in a lasting way? To those who have studied the question, the answer seems to be a German immigrant named Charles Kohler, whose life story is characterized by many of the elements that mark the history of wine in America. In the first place, he was a German, and Germans have had more to do with bringing about the culture of wine in this country than any other nationality. In the second place, he did not come from a wine-growing region; neither did the Germans who founded wine