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of Enologists. See American Society for Enology and Viticulture American Vintners Association, 354 American Viticultural Areas (AVAs), 269, 276, 355–56 “Americanwine, 72, 441n54 American Wine Alliance for Research and Education (AWARE), 354 American Wine Appreciation Week, 357 American Wine Co., 73, 125, 179, 180, 275 American Wine Growers, 311, 312, 313, 314, 315 American Wine Society, 250, 260–61 Amerine, Maynard A., 78, 86, 91, 101, 102, 103, 109, 112, 145, 147, 149, 150, 207, 235, 309, 408n36, 415n112, 420n31, 447n53, 471n8; “Composition and Quality of Musts

. Lee, Henry. How Dry We Were: Prohibition Revisited. Prentice Hall, 1963. Lender, Mark Edward, and James Kirby Martin. Drinking in America: A His- tory. Free Press, zd ed., 1987. Lukacs, Paul. American Vintage: The Rise of American Wine. Houghton Mifflin, 2000. Mather, Cotton. Diary of Cotton Mather, vol. i: 1681-1709. Frederick Ungar, 1957. Mather, Increase. Wo to Drunkards, Two Sermons Testifying against the Sin of Drunkenness: Wherein the Woefulness of that Evil, and the Misery of all that are addicted to it, is discovered from the Word of God. Marmaduke Johnson

, and the legal o‹cer was Jefferson Peyser; both men were to serve for the rest of their working lives the organization they had helped found.11 An o‹ce was found at 85 Second Street, San Francisco, an address shared at various times by the California Deciduous Fruit Growers Association, the California Vine- yardists Association, the California Grape Products Company, Fruit Industries, A.R. Mor- row, and the Association of Western Wine Producers. No other address is so rich in the history of American wine.12 The first, crucial task was to enlarge the membership. The

York: McGraw-Hill, 1983), p. 160. 31. Louis A. Petri, The Petri Family in the Wine Industry, interview by Ruth Teiser, Berkeley: Regional Oral History O‹ce, Bancroft Library, University of California, 1971, p. 3. 32. Philip M. Wagner, American Wines and How to Make Them (New York: Knopf, 1933), p. 95. 33. Horace O. Lanza, California Grape Products and Other Wine Enterprises, interview by Ruth Teiser, Berkeley: Regional Oral History O‹ce, Bancroft Library, University of Califor- nia, 1971, pp. 5–7. 34. U.S. Department of the Treasury, Bureau of Prohibition

Wine [is] the most praised, most admired, most civilized of all beverages, the favorite accompaniment of fine food in the most respected sectors of our society. And American wines have become the finest in the world and are becoming even finer with each passing year. . . . The wine revolution hasn't ended, as some people would have you think. It has only begun. L E O N D. A D A M S , "What's Going on Here Anyhow?" Wine consumption increased each year after Repeal, although not dra- matically. Forty-two percent of Americans told pollsters in 1939 that they

injury to the public service, and more trouble to me than any other circumstance that has occurred in the internal concerns of the country during my administration. And were I to commence my administration again, with the knowledge which from experience I have acquired, the first question that I would ask with regard to every candidate for office should be ‘is he addicted to the use of ardent spirits?’” Quoted in John Kobler, Ardent Spirits: The Rise and Fall of Prohibition (New York: Putnam, 1973), 32. 48. Cited in Paul Lukacs, Vintage: The Rise of American Wine (New

was a very common practice, and one not necessarily regarded as adulteration: some might think it an improvement. 12. Buchanan, Culture of the Grape, p. 58. 13. W. J. Flagg, “Wine in America and American Wine,” Harper’s New Monthly Magazine 41 (June 1870): 112. Flagg was Longworth’s son-in-law and had been man- ager of his wineries. 14. United States Department of Agriculture, Annual Report, 1868 (Washing- ton, DC: Government Printing Office, 1869), p. 575. 15. Nicholas Longworth, “The Process of Wine-Making on the Ohio,” Horti- culturist 4 (1850): 397. 16. John F

the Japanese Nagasawa in Sonoma, not to mention the uncounted, nameless Indians, Mexicans, and Chinese who did the work of vineyard and winery up and down California throughout the nineteenth century. What was true in the early days continues to be true today: the Italian Luca Paschina in Virginia, the German Herman Wiemer in upstate New York, and the Croatian Mike Grgich in California are representative of a large and varied group currently active in American wine making. Konstantin Frank is thus not really an exotic but part of a tradition. Still, his is a

Agricultural Sciences, 197 Almadén Vineyards, 160, 242; and Frank Schoonmaker, 162 – 163, 164, 165, 166, 167, 169 Alsace, 157 Alta California, San Francisco, 61, 65, 69, 70 Amateur Musical Club, San Francisco, 59, 65 American Center for Wine, Food and the Arts, 232 American Institute of Wine and Food, 232 American Society for Enology and Viticul- ture, 187, 191, 232 American Society of Enologists, 187 American Vineyard Foundation, 184 American Wine Company, 39 American Wine Growers Association, 35, 37 American Winegrowers’ Association, 107 American Wine Press, 54

cannot tell from the label or from the price whether he is get- ting the finest wine in California or the poorest bulk wine that ever was lucky enough to get by the minimum standards.77 The extent to which American wine failed to reimpose itself in the first years after Re- peal is vividly clear from an anecdote in a letter to W. V. Cruess, the leading technical au- thority on wine in California, from one of his young assistants in the Fruit Products Lab- oratory at Berkeley, Emil Mrak.78 Mrak had, for some reason, attended a convention of the American Medical