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numerous references to wine, could separate wine from beer and spirits. Court cases challenging the prohibitory state laws in the latter part of the nineteenth century were brought by brewers mostly, dis- tillers occasionally, but rarely by wineries. Wine made up a very small part of the overall liquor market, and much of it was reserved for the elite. Today, wine is increasingly popular and affordable in America. Wine ap- preciation is growing nationwide. Yet there is no national consensus—nor will there be one anytime soon—on the role of wine in American society and

drink. And yet another revealed that both rum and Spanish brandy are known as aguardiente, which, being translated, means “water for the teeth.”4 The authors of House- hold Guide to Wines and Liquors (an instance that Schoonmaker missed) informed their readers that Catawba was “produced from Muscat grapes.” There were some sane voices in the midst of this foolish hubbub: Schoonmaker him- self, with Tom Marvel, published the Complete Wine Book; Julian Street’s Wines was reli- able; and Philip Wagner’s American Wines and How to Make Them—published just as Re- peal


to an institution, it would have to be to the Huntington. Finally, I should like to make grateful acknowledgment to a writer personally unknown to me, Philip Wagner. For more than fifty years he has been writing gracefully, originally, and authoritatively about American wines and vines, and no one else now living can have done so much through his writings to foster an intelli- gent interest in wine among Americans. xvii This page intentionally left blank

California for quality, European-style wines. But in the late 1960s, two startling events brought revolutionary change virtually overnight. The first was a chance encounter between author Leon Adams, making a visit to the Yakima Valley in 1966, and Victor Allison, the manager for American Wine Grow- ers, who had begun to take notice of California varietal wines and experiment with a few of their own. As Adams explains, he happened across just a single memorable Washing- ton wine on that trip, a rosé of grenache, made by Associated Vintners (A/V), a group of amateur

a seller but one who has to do with the entire process of winegrowing, as in the phrase now common on American wine labels, "vinted and bottled by." Vintage is an instance of the opposite process of narrowed meaning: originally vintage meant harvest, but it is now generally understood to mean "good harvest," as in "vintage year" or "vintage wine." b. French terms still felt to be alien but in fact used by writers in English include: appellation, brut, cave, cepage, chai, chambrer, chaptali^ation, climat, clos, cru, cuvage, cuvee, eleveur, marc, negotiant

the wine world seems to be that we might have lost some- thing. In 2015, noted American wine commentator Matt Kramer published a short book titled True Taste: The Seven Essential Wine Words. In it he prompts us to move away from a focus on flavor identification, to more global, thoughtful, subjective terms that capture the qualities of wine better. “Too many tasting notes now offer little more than a string of fanciful flavor descriptors with the judgment revealed only in the score itself—a numerical ‘thank you ma’am’ after the more energetic ‘slam, bam

told the Napa audience: "Your problem is to identify your wine and to educate the consumer and the trade to recognize your dry wine be- cause yours is better."4 Quality improvement and definition, regional identification and pro- motion, and brand development are never-ending jobs, but it is possible to distinguish stages within the progression. The first phase of Napa's post-Repeal identification with wine quality extended to 1938-39, when the outbreak of war in Europe caused American wine marketers on the Building a Market for Napa Wines 69 East Coast to

Vintage: The Rise of American Wine. New York: Norton. ———. 2005. The Great Wines of America. New York: Norton. MacNeil, Karen. 2001. The Wine Bible. New York: Workman. Malorgio, Giulio, Anna Hertzberg, and Cristina Grazia. 2008. “Italian Wine Consumer Behavior and Wineries Responsive Capacity.” Paper presented at the Twelfth International Congress of the European Association of Agricul- tural Economists, Gent, Belgium, August 26–29. Manning, Willard G., Emmett B. Keeler, Joseph P. Newhouse, Elizabeth M. Sloss, and Jeffrey Wasserman. 1989. “The Taxes of Sin: Do

1965, more than twenty years after Winkler and Amerine’s recommenda- tions had been published, the visible results were so meager that Amerine felt he had wasted his time on the work: so discouraged was he that, as he later wrote, he would have left the university for “the right biochemical job” if one had been offered then.22 The work was having its invisible effects, however; what had been a grad- ual and scattered development for years at last gathered momentum in the late 1960s, when, as part of a general change in the fortunes of American wine, Californians

Reports. No. 2. Husmann, George. "American Wine and Wine-Making." U. S. D. A. Report, 1867, pp. 154-163. . "Grape, Raisin, and Wine Production in the United States." U. S. D. A. Yearbook, 1902, pp. 407-420. . "The Present Condition of Grape Culture in California." U. S. D. A. Tear book, 1898, pp. 551-562. Keller, Matthew. "The Grape and Wine of Los Angeles." U. S. Patent Office Report, Agriculture, 1858, pp. 344-348. M'Kee, Andrew. "The Grape and Wine Culture of California." U. S. Patent Office Report, Agriculture, 1858, pp. 338-344. McMutrie, William. Report