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drink. And yet another revealed that both rum and Spanish brandy are known as aguardiente, which, being translated, means “water for the teeth.”4 The authors of House- hold Guide to Wines and Liquors (an instance that Schoonmaker missed) informed their readers that Catawba was “produced from Muscat grapes.” There were some sane voices in the midst of this foolish hubbub: Schoonmaker him- self, with Tom Marvel, published the Complete Wine Book; Julian Street’s Wines was reli- able; and Philip Wagner’s American Wines and How to Make Them—published just as Re- peal


to an institution, it would have to be to the Huntington. Finally, I should like to make grateful acknowledgment to a writer personally unknown to me, Philip Wagner. For more than fifty years he has been writing gracefully, originally, and authoritatively about American wines and vines, and no one else now living can have done so much through his writings to foster an intelli- gent interest in wine among Americans. xvii This page intentionally left blank

California for quality, European-style wines. But in the late 1960s, two startling events brought revolutionary change virtually overnight. The first was a chance encounter between author Leon Adams, making a visit to the Yakima Valley in 1966, and Victor Allison, the manager for American Wine Grow- ers, who had begun to take notice of California varietal wines and experiment with a few of their own. As Adams explains, he happened across just a single memorable Washing- ton wine on that trip, a rosé of grenache, made by Associated Vintners (A/V), a group of amateur

a seller but one who has to do with the entire process of winegrowing, as in the phrase now common on American wine labels, "vinted and bottled by." Vintage is an instance of the opposite process of narrowed meaning: originally vintage meant harvest, but it is now generally understood to mean "good harvest," as in "vintage year" or "vintage wine." b. French terms still felt to be alien but in fact used by writers in English include: appellation, brut, cave, cepage, chai, chambrer, chaptali^ation, climat, clos, cru, cuvage, cuvee, eleveur, marc, negotiant

Vintage: The Rise of American Wine. New York: Norton. ———. 2005. The Great Wines of America. New York: Norton. MacNeil, Karen. 2001. The Wine Bible. New York: Workman. Malorgio, Giulio, Anna Hertzberg, and Cristina Grazia. 2008. “Italian Wine Consumer Behavior and Wineries Responsive Capacity.” Paper presented at the Twelfth International Congress of the European Association of Agricul- tural Economists, Gent, Belgium, August 26–29. Manning, Willard G., Emmett B. Keeler, Joseph P. Newhouse, Elizabeth M. Sloss, and Jeffrey Wasserman. 1989. “The Taxes of Sin: Do

told the Napa audience: "Your problem is to identify your wine and to educate the consumer and the trade to recognize your dry wine be- cause yours is better."4 Quality improvement and definition, regional identification and pro- motion, and brand development are never-ending jobs, but it is possible to distinguish stages within the progression. The first phase of Napa's post-Repeal identification with wine quality extended to 1938-39, when the outbreak of war in Europe caused American wine marketers on the Building a Market for Napa Wines 69 East Coast to

1965, more than twenty years after Winkler and Amerine’s recommenda- tions had been published, the visible results were so meager that Amerine felt he had wasted his time on the work: so discouraged was he that, as he later wrote, he would have left the university for “the right biochemical job” if one had been offered then.22 The work was having its invisible effects, however; what had been a grad- ual and scattered development for years at last gathered momentum in the late 1960s, when, as part of a general change in the fortunes of American wine, Californians

Reports. No. 2. Husmann, George. "American Wine and Wine-Making." U. S. D. A. Report, 1867, pp. 154-163. . "Grape, Raisin, and Wine Production in the United States." U. S. D. A. Yearbook, 1902, pp. 407-420. . "The Present Condition of Grape Culture in California." U. S. D. A. Tear book, 1898, pp. 551-562. Keller, Matthew. "The Grape and Wine of Los Angeles." U. S. Patent Office Report, Agriculture, 1858, pp. 344-348. M'Kee, Andrew. "The Grape and Wine Culture of California." U. S. Patent Office Report, Agriculture, 1858, pp. 338-344. McMutrie, William. Report

T E R 1 3 sibility for successful grape growing in its eastern valleys” and gave Maynard Amerine as his authority.9 Frank Schoonmaker, writing in 1941, a‹rmed that although Washington winemaking was in its “embryonic” state, Washington sooner or later “will produce fine wines and will rank among the best viticultural regions of the United States.”10 Amerine, writing in 1942 to describe American wine for an English readership, casually remarked that “proper varieties of V. vinifera, planted in the cooler districts of California (or in sim- ilar regions of the

11 A NEW DAWN (I) The Northern and Central States NEW YORK At the beginning of the 1960s things had never been so good at the Taylor Wine Com- pany. Founded in 1880 in the little town of Hammondsport at the foot of Keuka Lake, where winemaking began in New York, Taylor had survived Prohibition, the Great De- pression, the war, and the postwar collapse of the wine market. Shrewd management and a good sales network now began to receive their reward as the sales of American wine started to grow. Taylor had always been a family business: the founder, Walter Taylor