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. Classes not only were renamed; they were re-created to help expand the marketplace for wine in America. In the early 19505, the marketing whiz Ernest Gallo of E. & J. Gallo Winery, having seen liquor stores attach en- velopes of lemon Kool-Aid to bottles of Gallo white port,194 invented a lemon-flavored fortified wine called Thunderbird. Before Gallo could pro- duce and market the wine, federal law had to be amended to recognize this type of wine. Congress did so in 1954, expanding the "special natural wine" designation to include any flavored natural wine, including a

prominence of Michi- gan as a summer resort and tourist attraction for the whole of the Midwest has also been a boost to the winemakers, since they can count on large crowds of summer people for whom a winery is a novel attraction and wine an interestingly exotic commodity. The gradual reemergence of a winegrowing industry in Missouri is a good illustra- tion of the many and complex interests at work. Missouri is in some ways the most in- teresting and challenging of the central states—interesting because of its considerable historical contribution to the story of wine in

, had the potential to yield wine both cheap and good: all that was wanted was "skilful labourers." No account of the history of wine in America is complete without at least a bare summary of "Jefferson and wine."94 THE ESTABLISHMENT OF AN INDUSTRY FROM THE REVOLUTION TO THE BEGINNINGS OF AN INDUSTRY 127 We have already touched briefly on Jefferson's part in Philip Mazzei's Vineyard Society just before the outbreak of the Revolution. Soon after, Jefferson had been transformed from country gentleman and provincial lawyer into a world-famous statesman, but he had never

a following over time. In terms of label count, wine in America is almost entirely composed of distinctive wines of place. But these do not appear at your local Safeway. Anyone who hasn’t tried it can’t possibly imagine how much work is required to establish a new brand in national distribution today. In truth, there is almost no receptivity for a new player outside the norm. You would think that all that web-kvetching about terroir would show up in the marketplace in a way a guy could use to build a brand. In your dreams, maybe. It’s strange to spend all

consumption.”43 When a survey found wine drinkers to deny that such statements would encourage them to drink more, the Treasury Department approved them, saying that “under existing law, [B]ATF can only deny labeling statements if they are false or misleading”; these were neither, because all they did was to direct consumers to sources of information.44 The Wine Institute heralded this decision as an “historic breakthrough . . . a defining new chapter in the evolution of fed- eral policy towards wine in America.”45 Observers viewed this decision as opening the door to the

successful winemaking had I 2 's western Washington, Lambert 424 THE INDUSTRY ACROSS THE NATION at last been established and when the economic possibilities of newly settled re- gions were being explored for the first time. The point I especially want to make is that the current ferment of interest in wine in America is not so much a new thing as it is a return to and a continuation of an earlier state of things. Prohibition and its lingering effects have obscured that fact from us. It is now time to consider what Prohibition was, where it came from, and what it did. 424