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as much wine as it exports, making it the world’s third largest wine importer, it is nevertheless true that about two out of every three wine bottles sold in the United States come from California. That brings us to Wilkinson’s main concern as an importer — getting people to toss the Gallo for a good ol’ glass of, uh, Landskroon. American wine drinkers may understand how to pair wines with food for the best effect, or they may know only the name Beringer or Mondavi and simply go with the brand. An Austrian wine, for all its quality and value, might seem so