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memory. Th ere are some stalls stocked with merchandise scarcely a week out of Chinese knockoff factories: SpongeBob SquarePants T-shirts and bootleg Snow White baskets. But there are also stalls that off er the pro- duce of the season from small landowners’ plots, much as they have from the very beginning, or stalls that off er food prepared according to antique customs: crunchy grasshoppers laced with chili peppers, and mounds of black mole paste used for making spiced sauces. But all of it, even the kitsch, has a special provenance, because it is the custom

in Remix