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they believe it is “the right thing to do” for their family’s and employees’ health and for the sake of generations to come. Some argue further that growing grapes (or producing milk) without chemical inputs enhances the potential for terroir taste in wine (and cheese); “organic growing is the only path of grape growing that leads to optimum quality and expression of the land in wine,” says John Williams, owner of Frog’s Leap Winery in napa valley.25 There is little economic incentive, at the retail end, to craft a naturally aged cheese from organic milk or to