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, in guiding people’s use of the estu- ary’s shellfi sh resource, were providing a service similar to that of a kayak guide who shows visitors to the most spectacular spots. DBOC’s onshore shop hosted as many as fi fty thousand visitors a year, making it a major recreation destination, particularly as local food increasingly became a tourist draw for the West Marin area. An oyster even tastes wild, bringing the sharp brininess of the sea to our mouths along with a deep appreciation of place, like the idea of terroir in winemaking. A more direct parallel exists