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-eating beetles and barn swallows as well as rodent-eating owls, and planting winter cover crops between rows of vines to restore depleted nutri- ents to the soil. in California, as amy trubek writes, “terroir represents a less mechanistic and less invasive philosophy of winemaking.”24 Many of today’s grape growers and dairy farmers, among them baby boomers shaped by the environmentalist ethos of the 1960s and 1970s, insist that agricul- ture, in the guise of stewardship, can have a positive impact on environmental resources. The Langes farm organically, randy said, because