Band 20 Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe

book: Band 20 Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe

Open Access Published by De Gruyter Oldenbourg 2019

Band 20 Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe

Edited by: Cornelia Aust, Denise Klein and Thomas Weller

Part of the multi-volume work Jahrbuch für Europäische Geschichte / European History Yearbook

https://doi.org/10.1515/9783110635942

Overview
Contents

About this book

Dress is a key marker of difference. It is closely attached to the body, part of the daily routine, and an unavoidable means of communication. The clothes people wear tell stories about their allegiances and identities but also about their exclusion and stigmatization. They allow for the display of wealth and can mercilessly display poverty and indigence. Clothes also enable people to play with identities and affinities: for instance, individuals can claim higher social status via their clothes. In many ways, dress is thus open to manipulation by the wearer and misinterpretation by the observer.

Authorities—whether religious or secular, local or regional—have always aimed at imposing order on this potential muddle. This is particularly true for the early modern era, when the world became ever more complex. In Europe, the composition of societies diversified with the emergence of new social groups and increasing migration and travel. Thanks to intensified long-distance trade and technological developments, new fashionable clothes and accessories entered the market. With the emergence of a consumer culture, it was now the case that not only the extremely wealthy could afford at least the occasional indulgence in luxury items and accessories.

Over recent years, research has focused on a variety of areas related to dress and appearance in the context of early-modern political, socio-economic, and cultural transformations both within Europe and related to its entanglement with other parts of the world. Nevertheless, a significant compartmentalization in the research on dress and appearance remains: research is often organized around particular cities and territories, and much research is still framed by modern national boundaries. This special issue looks at dress and its perception in Europe from a transcultural perspective and highlights the many differences that clothing can express.

Topics

Frontmatter Open Access Download PDF	I
Contents Contents Open Access Download PDF	V
Introduction Cornelia Aust, Denise Klein and Thomas Weller Open Access Download PDF	1
“The Antipathy between French and Spaniards”: Dress, Gender, and Identity in the Court Society of Early Modern Naples, 1501–1799 Gabriel Guarino Open Access Download PDF	13
“a sutte of black which will always be of use to you”: Expressions of Difference and Similarity in the Clothing Choices of the Scottish Male Elite Travelling in Europe, 1550–1750 Maria Hayward Open Access Download PDF	33
“He knows them by their dress”: Dress and Otherness in Early Modern Spain Thomas Weller Open Access Download PDF	52
Jewish Travelers in Early Modern Italy: Visible and Invisible Resistance to the Jewish Badge Flora Cassen Open Access Download PDF	73
From Noble Dress to Jewish Attire: Jewish Appearances in the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth and the Holy Roman Empire Cornelia Aust Open Access Download PDF	90
The Emergence of a Polish National Dress and Its Perception Beata Biedrońska-Słota and Maria Molenda Open Access Download PDF	113
Shawls and Sable Furs: How to Be a Boyar under the Phanariot Regime (1710–1821) Constanţa Vintilă-Ghiţulescu Open Access Download PDF	137
Imperial Fashions: Cashmere Shawls between Istanbul, Paris, and Milan (Eighteenth and Nineteenth Centuries) Giulia Calvi Open Access Download PDF	159
Everything in its Right Place? Bernhard Gissibl Open Access Download PDF	177
List of Contributors Open Access Download PDF	210

Language: English
Publisher: De Gruyter Oldenbourg
Pages
- Front matter: 6
- Main content: 212
Illustrations
- Illustrations: 8
- Line drawings: 2

eBook

Published: October 8, 2019
ISBN: 9783110635942

Paperback

Published: October 8, 2019
ISBN: 9783110632040