Abstract
The article presents an account of the visual relations created by garments through their plastic formants, examining the role played by form, material, and composition in creating body hierarchies that produce prescribed behaviors between different subjects. The work dissects the concept of thematic role from Greimasian theory, investigating the manners in which an eighteenth-century wedding dress presents the chaining of programs governing materials, garments, and the body in the production of narrative interactions between subjects. The work utilizes a combination of Greimas’ method with the Visual Semiotics continued by Floch and Oliveira, as well as Hammad’s Semiotics of Space which permit the exam of optical relations created in the body through its clothing – relations that can be read as manifesting values that are both historically and socially determined, or in the act of apprehension of an object. The eighteenth century provides a type of “original” case, whose results are pertinent to a broader study of the relations between body and dress: the work concludes with the understanding that Fashion changes through the transit of values and roles invested in the body and dress – a set of changes closely linked to the construction of social roles.
References
Barthes, Roland. 1967. Système de la mode. Paris: Éditions du Seuil.Search in Google Scholar
Barthes, Roland. 2006. The language of fashion. Oxford: Berg.Search in Google Scholar
Baudelaire, Charles. 1964. The painter of modern life and other essays. London: Phaidon.Search in Google Scholar
Boucher, François. 1967. 20,000 years of fashion: The history of costume and personal adornment. New York: H. N. Abrams.Search in Google Scholar
De Marly, Diana. 1980. The history of haute couture, 1850–1950. London: Batsford.Search in Google Scholar
Floch, Jean-Marie. 1985. Petites mythologies de l’oeil et de l’esprit. Paris and Amsterdam: Hadès-Benjamins.10.1075/as.1Search in Google Scholar
Floch, Jean-Marie. 1995. Identités visuelles. Paris: Presses Universitaires de France.Search in Google Scholar
Greimas, Algirdas-Julien. 1983. Du sens II: Essais sémiotiques. Paris: Éditions du Seuil.Search in Google Scholar
Greimas, Algirdas Julien. 1984. Sémiotique figurative et sémiotique plastique. Actes Sémiotiques 60. 3–24.Search in Google Scholar
Greimas, Algirdas-Julien. 1986. Sémantique structurale. Paris: Presses Universitaires de France.Search in Google Scholar
Greimas, Algirdas-Julien & Joseph Courtés. 1993. Dictionnaire raisonné de la théorie du langage. Paris: Hachette.Search in Google Scholar
Hammad, Manar. 1986. Expression spatiale de l’énonciation. Cruzeiro Semiótico 5. 38–79.Search in Google Scholar
Hart, Avril & Susan North. 1998. Seventeenth and eighteenth-century fashion in detail. London: V&A.Search in Google Scholar
Hebdige, Dick. 1979. Subculture: The meaning of style. London & New York: Routledge.Search in Google Scholar
Hjelmslev, Louis. 1966. Prolégomènes à une théorie du langage. Paris: Minuit.Search in Google Scholar
Jardim, Marilia. 2014. O corset na moda ocidental. São Paulo: Pontifícia Universidade Católica de São Paulo Master’s thesis.Search in Google Scholar
Jardim, Marilia. 2019. The corset and the veil as disruptive manifestations of clothing: The tightlacer and the Tuareg. dObra[s] 12(25). 53–74. https://doi.org/10.26563/dobras.v11i25.853.Search in Google Scholar
Jardim, Marilia. 2020. The corset and the hijab: Absence and presence in the nineteenth and twenty-first century fashion systems. Actes Sémiotiques 123.10.25965/as.6415Search in Google Scholar
Kunzle, David. 2004. Fashion and fetishism: Corsets, tight-lacing & other forms of body-sculpture. Stroud: Sutton.Search in Google Scholar
Landowski, Eric. 1997. Présences de l’autre. Paris: Presses Universitaires de France.Search in Google Scholar
Landowski, Eric. 2005. Les interactions risquées. Limoges: Presses Universitaires de Limoges.Search in Google Scholar
Landowski, Eric. 2009. Avoir prise, donner prise. Actes Sémiotiques 112.10.25965/as.2852Search in Google Scholar
Landowski, Eric. 2010. Régimes d’espace. Actes Sémiotiques 113.10.25965/as.1743Search in Google Scholar
Landowski, Eric. 2014. Sociossemiótica: Uma teoria geral do sentido. Galáxia 27. 10–20. https://doi.org/10.1590/1982-25542014119609.Search in Google Scholar
Lynn, Eleri. 2010. Underwear fashion in detail. London: V&A.Search in Google Scholar
Oliveira, Ana Claudia. 1992. Fala gestual. São Paulo: Perspectiva.Search in Google Scholar
Oliveira, Ana Claudia. 2004. Semiótica plástica. São Paulo: Hacker.Search in Google Scholar
Oliveira, Ana Claudia. 2008. Visualidade processual da aparência. In Ana Claudia Oliveira & Kathia Castilho (eds.), Corpo e moda: Por uma compreensão do contemporâneo, 93–104. São Paulo: Estação das Letras e Cores.Search in Google Scholar
Steele, Valerie. 1996. Fetish: Fashion, sex and power. Oxford: Oxford University Press.Search in Google Scholar
Steele, Valerie. 2001. The corset: A cultural history. New Haven & London: Yale University Press.Search in Google Scholar
Woolf, Virginia. 1977. Orlando: A biography. London: Grafton.Search in Google Scholar
© 2021 Walter de Gruyter GmbH, Berlin/Boston