Physicochemical Characterization and in vivo Skin Performance of a Novel Alkyl Polyglucoside Emulsifier in Natural Cosmetic Cream-Bases: The content of this paper was presented at the 9th World Surfactant Congress and Business Convention, CESIO 2013 in Barcelona.

Dragana Bogdanovic Markovic; Marija Tasic-Kostov; Milica Lukic; Tanja Isailovic; Veljko Krstonosic; Rolf Daniels; Snezana Savic

doi:10.3139/113.110294

Published by De Gruyter May 1, 2013

Physicochemical Characterization and in vivo Skin Performance of a Novel Alkyl Polyglucoside Emulsifier in Natural Cosmetic Cream-Bases

The content of this paper was presented at the 9^th World Surfactant Congress and Business Convention, CESIO 2013 in Barcelona.

Physikalisch-chemische Charakterisierung und in vivo-Hautfunktion eines neuen Alkylpolyglucosid-Elmugators in natürlichen kosmetischen Creme-Grundlagen

Dragana Bogdanovic Markovic , Marija Tasic-Kostov , Milica Lukic , Tanja Isailovic , Veljko Krstonosic , Rolf Daniels and Snezana Savic

From the journal Tenside Surfactants Detergents

https://doi.org/10.3139/113.110294

Showing a limited preview of this publication:

Abstract

Alkyl polyglucosides (APGs) are a perfect amphiphilic structure, with excellent surface activity and solubility feature. The aim of this study is to develop a simple system, with a relatively low emulsifier content, composed of materials mainly naturally based and with no additional fatty alcohol. Hydroxystearyl alcohol and Hydroxystearyl glucoside, prepared with Jojoba and Hazelnut oil, medium chain triglycerides with or without Xylitylglucoside and Anhydroxylitol and Xylitol, have been investigated by using microscopy, rheology, thermal analysis, pH and conductimetry. Cyclic stress and in vivo skin irritation tests were also conducted. The investigated natural APG emulsifier has a capacity to form simple and stable emulsions of desirable rheological profile with improved hydration potential and to renew damaged skin, thus it can be safely applied as stabilizer in cosmetic and prospective pharmaceutical cream-bases.

Kurzfassung

Alkylpolyglucoside (APGs) besitzen eine ausgezeichnete amphiphile Struktur, eine hervorragende Oberflächenaktivität und Löslichkeit. Das Ziel dieser Untersuchung ist die Entwicklung eines einfachen Systems mit einem relativ geringen Emulgatorgehalt, das hauptsächlich aus natürlichen Materialien besteht und keinen zusätzlichen Fettalkohol enthält. Hydroxystearylalkohol und Hydroxystearylglucosid, die aus Jojoba- und Haselnussöl, mittellangen Triglyzeriden mit und ohne Xylitylglucosid und Anhydroxylitol und Xylitol hergestellt wurden, wurden mittels Mikroskopie, Rheologie, thermischer Analyse, pH- und Leitfähigkeitsmessungen untersucht. Zyklische Beanspruchungsprüfungen und in vivo-Hautschädigungtests wurden ebenfalls durchgeführt. Der untersuchte natürliche APG-Emulgator ist fähig, einfache und stabile Emulsionen mit einem erwünschten rheologischen Profil und verbesserter Feuchtigkeitszufuhr zu bilden und die geschädigte Haut zu erneuern. Daher kann er als Stabilisator in kosmetischen und möglichen pharmazeutischen Creme-Grundlagen sicher verwendet werden.

Key words: Alkyl polyglucoside emulsifier; rheological behavior; cyclic stress test; in vivo skin irritation test; skin hydration

Stichwörter: Alkylpolyglucosidemulgator; rheologisches Verhalten; zyklische Beanspruchungsprüfung; In-vivo-Hautschädigungtest; Hautfeuchtigkeit

*Mrs. Professor Dr. Snezana Savic, University of Belgrade, Faculty of Pharmacy, Department of Pharmaceutical Technology and Cosmetology, Vojvode Stepe 450, 11221 Belgrade, Serbia, Tel.: +381-11-3951-366, Fax: +381-11-3972-840, E-Mail: snexs@pharmacy.bg.ac.rs (S. Savic)

Dragana Bogdanovic Markovic was received her B. Sc. from University of Belgrade, Faculty of Pharmacy (2008). She is a student of postgraduate Master study at Faculty of Pharmacy, Department of Pharmaceutical Technology and Cosmetology. Her current research involves characterization and application of alkyl polyglucoside emulsifiers.

Marija Tasic-Kostov is a Ph. D. graduate of University of Belgrade, Faculty of Pharmacy (2013). She works as a teaching assistant at University of Nis, Faculty of Medicine in the Department of Pharmacy. She is involved in researching of emulsifiers in cosmetic products.

Milica Lukic is currently a Ph. D. student – research assistant at University of Belgrade, Faculty of Pharmacy, Department of Pharmaceutical Technology and Cosmetology. Her research interests are in rheological, textural and sensory profiling of skin care emulsions.

Tanja Isailovic is currently a Ph. D. student – research assistant at University of Belgrade, Faculty of Pharmacy, Department of Pharmaceutical Technology and Cosmetology. Her interests are focused on sugar surfactants-based nanoemulsions, skin delivery and microneedles.

Veljko Krstonosic is assistant professor at University of Novi Sad, Faculty of Medicine, Department of Pharmacy. His research interest is focused on formulation and characterization of food and skin care emulsions.

Rolf Daniels is full professor and head of Department of Pharmaceutical Technology at Mathematisch-Naturwissenschaftliche Fakultät, Eberhard-Karls Universität Tübingen, Tübingen, Germany. His research interest is focused in the field of surfactant-free emulsions, lipid-based solid oral dosage forms, topical preparations of emulsion type.

Snezana Savic is associate professor, Ph. D. in Pharmacy at University of Belgrade, Faculty of Pharmacy, Department of Pharmaceutical Technology and Cosmetology. Her research focus is in skin delivery systems of emulsion type, novel surfactants characterization and in vivo/in vitro studies of topical dosage forms.

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Received: 2013-09-09

Revised: 2013-12-30

Published Online: 2013-05-01

Published in Print: 2014-03-17