Sodium Lauryl Sulfate vs. Sodium Coco Sulfate. Study of the Safety of Use Anionic Surfactants with Respect to Their Interaction with the Skin

Tomasz Bujak; Zofia Nizioł-Łukaszewska; Tomasz Wasilewski

doi:10.3139/113.110599

Published by De Gruyter March 7, 2019

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate vs. Sodium Coco Sulfate. Study of the Safety of Use Anionic Surfactants with Respect to Their Interaction with the Skin

Natriumlaurylsulfat vs. Natriumkokosulfat. Untersuchung der Anwendungssicherheit von anionischen Tensiden hinsichtlich ihrer Wechselwirkung mit der Haut

Tomasz Bujak , Zofia Nizioł-Łukaszewska and Tomasz Wasilewski

From the journal Tenside Surfactants Detergents

https://doi.org/10.3139/113.110599

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Abstract

As a result of growing awareness, consumers are increasingly interested in products that are safe on the skin and environmentally-friendly. This is one of the most important reasons for the very rapid development of the natural cosmetics segment which has been observed for several years now. Among the most commonly used anionic surfactants of natural origin are sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and sodium coco sulfate (SCS). As there are no unambiguous reports on the safety of using SCS, in this study an attempt was made to evaluate the effect of SCS on the skin. The results of the determination of the skin irritation potential (zein value) indicate that the analyzed parameter is approximately 15 % lower in SCS than in SLS. SCS has a stronger ability to interact with epidermal lipids and cause their elution from the skin, which in turn may damage the protective epidermal barrier. The results obtained during the evaluation of the effect produced by the analyzed substances on the metabolism of human keratinocytes (HaCaT) show that after 4 h of incubation with the studied groups of compounds there was a significant decrease in cell proliferation. The highest decrease in cell metabolism was demonstrated for SLS.

Kurzfassung

Aufgrund eines wachsenden Bewusstseins interessieren sich die Verbraucher zunehmend für Produkte, die sicher auf der Haut und umweltfreundlich sind. Dies ist einer der wichtigsten Gründe für die seit einigen Jahren beobachtete sehr schnelle Entwicklung des Naturkosmetiksegments. Zu den am häufigsten verwendeten anionischen Tensiden natürlichen Ursprungs zählen Natriumlaurylsulfat (SLS) und Natriumkokosulfat (SCS). Da keine eindeutigen Berichte über die Sicherheit der Verwendung von SCS vorliegen, wurde in dieser Studie versucht, die Wirkung von SCS auf die Haut zu bewerten. Die Ergebnisse der Bestimmung des Hautreizungspotenzials (Zein-Wert) weisen darauf hin, dass der analysierte Parameter bei SCS ca. 15 % niedriger ist als bei SLS. SCS kann stärker mit epidermalen Lipiden interagieren und diese besser von der Haut eluieren, was wiederum die schützende epidermale Barriere beschädigen kann. Die Ergebnisse, die bei der Bewertung des Effekts der analysierten Substanzen auf den Metabolismus menschlicher Keratinozyten (HaCaT) erhalten wurden, zeigen, dass nach 4 Stunden Inkubation mit den untersuchten Verbindungsgruppen eine signifikante Abnahme der Zellproliferation auftrat. Die höchste Abnahme des Zellstoffwechsels wurde für SLS nachgewiesen.

Key words: Anionic surfactants; irritant potential; cosmetics; safety of use; cell proliferation

Stichwörter: Anionische Tenside; Reizpotential; Kosmetika; Anwendungssicherheit; Zellproliferation

∗Correspondence address, Dr. Thomas Bujak, Department of Cosmetics and Pharmaceutical Products Technology, The University of Information Technology and Management in Rzeszow, Sucharskiego 2, Rzeszow, 35–225, Poland, E-Mail: tbujak@wsiz.rzeszow.pl

Tomasz Bujak received his M. Sc. in Chemical Engineering from the Technical University of Radom, Poland – specialization Materials Science and Engineering (2010). Currently works as a researcher in Department of Cosmetology at The University of Information Technology and Management in Rzeszow. Main research topics are manufacturing of cosmetics and househ2old products, natural cosmetics and quality assessment.

Zofia Nizioł-Łukaszewska received her M. Sc. From University of Rzeszow, Poland and University of Agriculture in Cracow, Poland – Specialization in Genetics, Breeding and Biotechnology of Plants (2008), then Ph. D. from University of Agriculture in Cracow, Poland in Faculty of Horticulture (2013). Currently works as a researcher in Department of Cosmetology at The University of Information Technology and Management in Rzeszow. Main research topics are antioxidant activity, plants physiology and application of plant ingredients in cosmetics production.

Tomasz Wasilewski received his M. Sc. in Chemical Engineering from the Technical University of Radom, Poland (2000), his Ph. D. in Materials Science and Engineering from the Technical University of Warsaw, Poland (2004) and his DSc. in Commodity Science from the Cracow University of Economics, Poland (2014). He was supported by the Foundation for Polish Science (2006–2007), and is currently a researcher at the Department of Chemistry, University of Technology and Humanities in Radom. Main research topics of Assoc. Prof. Tomasz Wasilewski are cosmetics and household products, their manufacturing, properties, quality assessment and physicochemistry of aqueous solutions of surfactants. Currently, he is the Head of Department of Chemistry and the Dean of the Faculty of Materials Science, Technology and Design at University of Technology and Humanities in Radom.

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Received: 2018-10-09

Accepted: 2018-11-02

Published Online: 2019-03-07

Published in Print: 2019-03-15

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate vs. Sodium Coco Sulfate. Study of the Safety of Use Anionic Surfactants with Respect to Their Interaction with the Skin

Abstract

Kurzfassung

References

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