Open Access Published by De Gruyter Open Access

Volume 23 Issue 4

December 2023

Issue of AUTEX Research Journal

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Contents
Journal Overview

Open Access October 25, 2023

Tie-Dyeing Pattern Fast-Generation Method Based on Deep-Learning and Digital-Image-Processing Technology

Suqiong Liu, Xiaogang Xing, Shanshan Wang, Jinxiong Zhou

Page range: 474-482

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Abstract

Contingency and uniqueness are regarded as typical artistic characteristics. To accomplish the realistic effect of each tie-dyeing pattern artwork, we propose a digital tie-dyeing pattern fast-generation algorithm based on auxiliary-classifier deep-convolution generative adversarial network (AC-DCGAN) and image-processing technology. To apply this algorithm, the designer first draws the planar layout diagram of the tie-dyeing patterns. The diagram consists of a white background and polychrome circles, and the regional-connectivity algorithm is used to extract information on all the circle positions as well as the pattern categories in the diagram. Then the AC-DCGAN-generated background image is color-corrected to stitch and complete its construction. The AC-DCGAN-generated tie-dyeing pattern image is also color-corrected and is then segmented and copied to the circle area. Mean filtering creates the final digital tie-dyeing patterns. Results show no obvious color difference in generated patterns, splicing edges show uniform transition, and unique patterns exhibit tie-dye characteristics, achieving realistic artistic effects.

Open Access October 25, 2023

Single-Sided Jacquard Knit Fabric Development and Seamless Ski Underwear Zoning Design based on Body Mapping Sportswear

Jianping Wang, Bingjie Zhang, Xiaofeng Yao, Jinzhu Shen, Luning Yuan, Ting Pan, Deyao Shen, Yupeng Li

Page range: 483-494

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Abstract

In order to meet the functional requirements of professional skiers for ski underwear, such as warmth, breathability, moisture absorption, sweat drainage, and stretch elasticity, six single-sided jacquard knit fabric structures were designed and then knitted with polyester and DRYARN. Then, 12 fabrics were acquired and ranked comprehensively by the one-way analysis of variance and grey correlative analysis based on entropy. According to the fabric properties and sweat distribution on the human skin surface, the professional ski underwear was zoning designed and the wearing experiment and evaluation were carried out on the “Newton” sweated manikin system. The analysis results show that the fabric with DRYARN ® material has better air permeability and moisture permeability. Thermal resistance, Clo value, and permeability play important roles in comprehensive evaluation. The results of wearing experiment show that the seamless professional ski underwear woven based on body mapping sportswear has superior function and reasonable design, which can provide technical support for the design of professional seamless ski underwear.

Open Access October 25, 2023

Non-Planar 3D Printed Elements on Textile Substrate Using a Fused Filament Fabrication 3D Printer

Dominik Muenks, Luca Eckelmann, Yordan Kyosev

Page range: 495-503

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Abstract

Adhesion between additively printed elements on textiles is one of the most important quality characteristics. Applied elements must form very good adhesion with the textile substrate in order to produce functional textiles. The request for non-planar printing directly on textiles is growing, especially in the fields of orthopaedic engineering and protective clothing. This new printing technique can open up new areas of application. For such a production of non-planar elements on textiles, new test methods have to be developed, as the current adhesion tests (180° peel test) are not applicable to non-planar prints on textiles. For non-planar additive printing on textiles, a cylindrical print bed for a fused filament fabrication printer was developed and modified accordingly in the first step. In the next step, a new measurement method was developed to investigate the adhesion between the textile and the non-planar three-dimensional-printed element. The study shows the challenges and the adhesion differences of non-planar printed objects on pre-stretched textiles on a cylindrical print bed. Several factors influencing adhesion were identified. The alignment of the printing nozzle to the textile substrate is the key factor influencing adhesion. The alignment also has a significant influence on the visual print quality.

Open Access October 25, 2023

Automatic Recognition of Density and Weave Pattern of Yarn-Dyed Fabric

Jun Xiang, Ruru Pan

Page range: 504-513

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Abstract

Under the production mode of small-batch and multi-item, the recognition of yarn-dyed fabric patterns is a crucial task in the textile industry. In this article, an automatic recognition system based on pixel-level features is proposed to recognize the density, the weave pattern, and the color pattern. In this system, the fabric images are captured by a scanner. First, a method based on the Hough transform is used to correct the skew of the yarns, including warp and weft. Second, the yarns and nodes are located in the enhanced images with a brightness-projection method. The density can be calculated by using the results. Then, the type of each node is identified based on the boundary information. We can obtain the weave pattern after knowing the type of each node. Finally, the fuzzy C-means algorithm is used to determine the color of each node, and thus we obtain the color pattern of the yarn-dyed fabric. Experimental results demonstrate that the proposed recognition system is effective for detecting the structural parameters of yarn-dyed fabric.

Open Access October 25, 2023

A Review of Textiles Reflecting FIR Produced by the Human Body

Jiří Militký, Dana Křemenáková, Mohanapriya Venkataraman, Josef Večerník, Lenka Martínková, Jan Marek, Jiří Procházka

Page range: 514-521

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Abstract

The human body constantly produces thermal electromagnetic radiation with a maximum of about 10 μm. This thermal radiation has a number of positive effects on the human body and, in addition, allows the insulation under clothing to be improved under extreme climatic conditions, causing a significant reduction in ambient temperature. With so-called far-infrared (FIR) textiles, it is possible to ensure the reflection of thermal radiation back to the human body. In the first part of this review, the generation of heat by the human body and its propagation by radiation through the skin are comprehensively explained. The thermal characteristics of the individual skin layers as an emitter of infrared radiation are given. The second part discusses the basic preparation methods of FIR textiles. Suitable particle systems are described based on metals and their oxides, porous carbon, and special ceramics. Modification of the fiber phase (especially the fineness of the fibers and the porosity of the fabric) in combination with the surface coating of metals is also used for their health-promoting effects. The main manufacturers of FIR textiles and their typical products are mentioned.

Open Access October 25, 2023

Computer Geometric Modeling Approach with Filament Assembly Model for 2 × 1 and 3 × 1 Twill Woven Fabric Structures

Puttipong Patumchat, Sudsakorn Inthidech, Yottha Srithep, Keartisak Sriprateep

Page range: 522-531

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Abstract

A new computer geometric modeling approach for 2 × 1 and 3 × 1 twill woven fabric structures is proposed. The precise geometrical description is presented by taking the skewness property into account. In the 2 × 1 and 3 × 1 twill weaves, the twill fabrics are formed of asymmetric floatings in which the length of floating sections was not equal on both surfaces and therefore the equilibrium condition was different from symmetric floatings. The proposed algorithm has three main parts: the first part describes the two-dimensional model of yarn cross-section for twill woven fabric structure, the second part consists of a modeling method for a three-dimensional model in warp/weft yarn, and the third part contains the CAD model. Examples of this approach are demonstrated and compared with a single line of yarn path model and the filament assemble model that excludes the skewness property. The model simulated in this study can improve the visual simulation of the real twill woven fabric and also this geometric model necessary as an input to many computational models for the prediction of the properties of the fabrics.

Open Access October 25, 2023

State of the Art of Presentation of Clothing Textiles in E-Commerce with Size Matching Issues

Jarosław Wojciechowski, Renata Lisowska, Ewa Skrzetuska

Page range: 532-542

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Abstract

“According to Lingaro’s analysis, the return of a product generates 5 times more CO 2 than the purchase itself. Thus, the optimization of online e-commerce purchasing processes is a serious challenge not only for business, but mainly for the protection of the environment and our global health.” Presentation of textiles and clothing in e-commerce in Poland has remained unchanged since the beginning of e-commerce (the setup of Allegro auction site in the early 2000s) until now with little exceptions of new technology trends powered by EU funds. In Poland, WearFits introduces an R&D solution in the form of a virtual fitting room presented in augmented reality (AR) view to decrease returns of textile clothing bought online. It uses an avatar of human size and shape of the customer’s body for fitting the three-dimensional models in AR view. The purpose of the article is to review the state of the art of presentation of clothing textiles in e-commerce in the world and in Poland for selling textiles online and to emphasize the problem of size matching in the context of returns.

Open Access October 25, 2023

Identification of Metal Threads from Croatian Fabrics

Kristina Šimić, Stana Kovačević, Tanja Pušić, Ivo Soljačić

Page range: 543-550

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Abstract

This article deals with the analysis of metal threads in weaving from historical Croatian textiles, liturgical vestments, and folk costumes from the seventeenth to the twentieth century. The independent narrow stripes, wires, and the srma that was formed by a combination of metal thread wrapped around a non-metal textile yarn were collected and analysed. Using physicochemical method scanning electron microscopy with energy-dispersive X-ray spectroscopy (SEM-EDX), the metal composition and content in the threads were analysed. By cross-sectional analysis of metal threads by the SEM-EDX method, it was determined whether the metal threads were homogeneous, gilded, or silver-plated. The composition and structure of non-metal textile yarns were determined by light microscopy. Metal threads were primarily made of gold, silver, or copper and their alloys, but recently less valuable metals having a similar shine have generally been used. Non-metal textile threads in srma are most often made of silk, cotton, and linen. The aim of this study was to determine which type and composition of metal threads were used in different regions of Croatia, which can serve as a database for the restoration and conservation of valuable historical textiles. Also, according to the composition of metal threads, the technology of production threads can be determined and the temporal and spatial dating of textile objects can be determined approximately.

Open Access October 25, 2023

Investigating Textile-Based Electrodes for ECG Monitoring in Veterinary Clinical Practice

Abreha Bayrau Nigusse, Benny Malengier, Desalegn Alemu Mengistie, Ambachew Maru, Lieva Van Langenhove

Page range: 551-559

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Abstract

There is an increasing interest in long-term electrocardiography (ECG) monitoring in veterinary clinical practice. ECG is the most essential physiological signal in diagnosing and managing heart diseases both in humans and animals. Electrodes are the main components that affect the quality of the acquired signal. This study focuses on the development of silver-coated textile electrodes for veterinary ECG testing (particularly for dogs). Silver printed polyester, embroidered, and silver-plated conductive hook textile electrodes were used for ECG measurement in dogs. This is an important validation for the use of textile ECG sensors in combination with hairy skin. ECG signals were collected while the animal was in a static position and walking on a smooth surface. The ECG signals collected from the dog using the silver printed polyester and embroidered textile electrodes with slight skin preparation have identifiable P, QRS, and T waveforms and were comparable with signals from standard silver/silver chloride (Ag/AgCl) electrodes. Results revealed that these textile electrodes can be used for ECG monitoring in a dog to avoid associated problems with commercially used crocodile clamps and standard Ag/AgCl electrodes. The hook electrodes show promising results when placed on the hairy regions of a dog without any skin preparation.

Open Access October 25, 2023

Animal Fiber Recognition Based on Feature Fusion of the Maximum Inter-Class Variance

Yaolin Zhu, Lu Zhao, Xin Chen, Yunhong Li, Jinmei Wang

Page range: 560-566

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Abstract

Cashmere and wool are common raw materials in the textile industry. The clothes made of cashmere are popular because of the excellent comfort. A system that can quickly and automatically classify the two will improve the efficiency of fiber recognition in the textile industry. We propose a classification method of cashmere and wool fibers based on feature fusion using the maximum inter-class variance. First, the fiber target area is obtained by the preprocessing algorithm. Second, the features of sub-images are extracted through the algorithm of the Discrete Wavelet Transform. It is linearly fused by introducing the weight in the approximate and detailed features. The maximum separability of the feature data can be achieved by the maximum inter-class variance. Finally, different classifiers are used to evaluate the performance of the proposed method. The support vector machine classifier can achieve the highest recognition rate, with an accuracy of 95.20%. The experimental results show that the recognition rate of the fused feature vectors is improved by 6.73% compared to the original feature vectors describing the image. It verifies that the proposed method provides an effective solution for the automatic recognition of cashmere and wool.

About this journal

AUTEX Research Journal is published by De Gruyter on behalf of the Association of Universities for Textiles (AUTEX)

Objective

The AUTEX Research Journal (AUT) is a leading open access, peer reviewed scientific journal dedicated to textile science and technology. AUT disseminates high-quality scientific knowledge related to textile-based materials and products, including topics like fibers, fibrous structures, functionalization, design, and manufacturing. Due to their unique properties and behaviour, fiber-based materials, in general, have substantially enlarged their range of applications in areas like health care and well-being, aeronautics and aerospace, defence, architecture, building and sports. In fact, the possibility of tuning their properties from nano to macro scale to obtain multifunctional and smart textiles is opening new opportunities to develop advanced solutions, traditional and non-traditional applications.

Topics

AUTEX Research Journal accepts high level scientific contributions on the following topics:

Advanced Fibres and Materials
Innovative Functional Textiles
Technical Textiles, Composites and Membranes
Protective Textiles
Medical Textiles, Tissue Engineering, Implants
Smart, Interactive and Multifunctional Textiles
Textile Processing,
Innovative Textile Structures
Nanotechnology, Nanotextiles, Electrospinning
Biopolymers and Biotechnology
Surface Functionalization and Coating
Textile and Clothing Machinery
Textile Testing, Measuring Technology
CAD/CAE-Technology, Mass Customisation
Modelling and Simulation
Comfort Science
Ecological and Environmental Textiles, Recycling and Life Cycle Analysis

Article Formats

We welcome submission of original research articles and invited review articles.

Your Benefits

One of the few journals dealing with textiles research at a global level
Clear review and publishing procedure
Open Access publication, ensuring widest possible dissemination of your research
Discounted APCs for AUTEX Association members
Authorized journal of AUTEX – The Association of Universities for Textiles