Impact Factor: 1.1

Open Access Published since October 19, 2012

AUTEX Research Journal

The Journal of Association of Universities for Textiles (AUTEX)

ISSN: 2300-0929

Editor-in-chief: Raul Fangueiro

Edited by: Diana P. Ferreira, Maryam Naebe, Pierre Ouagne

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About this journal

AUTEX Research Journal is published by De Gruyter on behalf of the Association of Universities for Textiles (AUTEX)

Objective

The AUTEX Research Journal (AUT) is a leading open access, peer reviewed scientific journal dedicated to textile science and technology. AUT disseminates high-quality scientific knowledge related to textile-based materials and products, including topics like fibers, fibrous structures, functionalization, design, and manufacturing. Due to their unique properties and behaviour, fiber-based materials, in general, have substantially enlarged their range of applications in areas like health care and well-being, aeronautics and aerospace, defence, architecture, building and sports. In fact, the possibility of tuning their properties from nano to macro scale to obtain multifunctional and smart textiles is opening new opportunities to develop advanced solutions, traditional and non-traditional applications.

Topics

AUTEX Research Journal accepts high level scientific contributions on the following topics:

Advanced Fibres and Materials
Innovative Functional Textiles
Technical Textiles, Composites and Membranes
Protective Textiles
Medical Textiles, Tissue Engineering, Implants
Smart, Interactive and Multifunctional Textiles
Textile Processing,
Innovative Textile Structures
Nanotechnology, Nanotextiles, Electrospinning
Biopolymers and Biotechnology
Surface Functionalization and Coating
Textile and Clothing Machinery
Textile Testing, Measuring Technology
CAD/CAE-Technology, Mass Customisation
Modelling and Simulation
Comfort Science
Ecological and Environmental Textiles, Recycling and Life Cycle Analysis

Article Formats

We welcome submission of original research articles and invited review articles.

Your Benefits

One of the few journals dealing with textiles research at a global level
Clear review and publishing procedure
Open Access publication, ensuring widest possible dissemination of your research
Discounted APCs for AUTEX Association members
Authorized journal of AUTEX – The Association of Universities for Textiles

History

AUTEX Research Journal was previously published by Sciendo.

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Supplementary Materials

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Volume 23 Issue 2

June 2023

Open Access June 29, 2023

Tensile Properties Analysis of 3D Flat-Knitted Inlay Fabric Reinforced Composites Using Acoustic Emission

Jiangtao Tan, Gaoming Jiang, Guangjun Wu, Pibo Ma

Page range: 142-152

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Abstract

In this work, based on the quasi-static tensile test and acoustic emission technology, the tensile properties of two types of three-dimensional flat-knitted inlay fabrics reinforced composites are investigated, and the acoustic emission characteristic parameters of various damage mechanisms are obtained. The transverse tensile process of specimens could be divided into the elastic stage, yield stage, and fracture stage. We found that, compared with the fluctuation of the stress-strain curve in the yield stage, weft insertion yarns in composite with interlock structure broke almost simultaneously, while the composite with plain stitch broke successively. The transverse and longitudinal tensile strength of the composite with interlock structure was 44.70% and 28.63% higher than the composite with plain structure, respectively. The SEM micrographs showed that the damage mechanism of the composites was matrix fracture, fiber-matrix debonding, and fiber breakage. The amplitude ranges of the three damage mechanisms were 50–65 dB, 65–80 dB, and 90–100 dB, respectively, and the frequency ranges were 35–114 kHz, 116–187 kHz, and 252–281 kHz, respectively. Fiber-matrix debonding and matrix fracture had large cumulative AE energy, numerous events, and long duration time, while fiber breakage had the characteristics of large amplitude, high frequency, low cumulative AE energy, few events, and short duration time.

Open Access June 29, 2023

Fit and Pressure Comfort Evaluation on a Virtual Prototype of a Tight-Fit Cycling Shirt

Yetanawork Teyeme, Benny Malengier, Tamrat Tesfaye, Simona Vasile, Lieva Van Langenhove

Page range: 153-163

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Abstract

Graduated compression is widely used for medical application to prevent perioperative venous thromboembolism, but other applications such as sportswear can potentially also benefit from it. A tight-fit cycling shirt meant to ensure the correct position during cycling and prevent injuries was designed. The aim of this study was to improve garment pattern design from the aspect of clothing pressure for providing support and enhancing comfort to the user. This paper investigates the suitability of pressure maps from 3D fashion design software CLO 3D for design and in particular its capability to discriminate between various materials and cycling postures. Moreover, the impact of the mechanical properties of fabric was analyzed. In particular, virtual prototyping tool CLO 3D and pressure mapping were employed to achieve the required graduated compression while ensuring fit and comfort. Pattern adjustments were iteratively performed until stress, strain, and pressure maps showed adequate fit and pressure of the cycling garment on the virtual cyclist in static and dynamic cycling positions. The impact of fabric types on garment fit has been shown by generating the stress, strain, and pressure maps with a virtual simulation. It was found that the visualized pressure on the human body model shows distributions that are related to contact between body and garment, and large compression stresses occur in the lower parts of the two shirts. Evident garment deformation was shown at hip level, upper arm, lower front side seam, and front neck, which can reduce garment wear comfort and freedom of movement. The output was found to be sufficiently accurate to optimize the garments based on material and cycling posture.

Open Access June 29, 2023

Review on Fabrication and Application of Regenerated Bombyx mori Silk Fibroin Materials

Ke Wang, Qian Ma, Hong-Tao Zhou, Ju-Mei Zhao, Miao Cao, Shu-Dong Wang

Page range: 164-183

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Abstract

Natural silk fiber derived from the Bombyx mori (B. mori) silkworm has long been used as a luxury raw material in textile industry because of its shimmering appearance and durability, and as surgical suture for its high strength and flexibility. Regenerated silk fibroin, as the main protein extracted from the cocoons of the B. mori silkworm, recently has gained considerable attention due to its outstanding properties, including facile processability, superior biocompatibility, controllable biodegradation, and versatile functionalization. Tremendous effort has been made to fabricate silk fibroin into various promising materials with controlled structural and functional characteristics for advanced utilities in a multitude of biomedical applications, flexible optics, electronics devices, and filtration systems. Herein, reverse engineered silk fibroin extraction methods are reviewed, recent advances in extraction techniques are discussed. Fabrication methods of silk fibroin materials in various formats are also addressed in detail; in particular, progress in new fabrication technologies is presented. Attractive applications of silk fibroin-based materials are then summarized and highlighted. The challenges faced by current approaches in production of silk fibroin-based materials and future directions acquired for pushing these favorable materials further toward above mentioned applications are further elaborated.

Open Access June 29, 2023

From Raw to Finished Cotton—Characterization by Interface Phenomena

Ana Marija Grancarić, Anita Tarbuk, Samira Hadžić, Barbara Simončič

Page range: 184-192

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Abstract

Interface phenomena that occur at the solid–liquid interface, such as wettability, adsorption, and particle aggregation, depend on the kind and magnitude of the solid surface free energy and electrokinetic properties found in water solutions. These phenomena are crucial for textile dyeing, finishing, and care. They characterize the material surface and change with different material pretreatment and finishing. In this paper, electrokinetic potential, isoelectric point, point of zero charge, a specific amount of surface charge and surface free energy of raw, enzymatically scoured, bleached, and finished cotton fabrics were investigated. Electrokinetic potential was measured by a streaming potential method and a specific quantity of surface charge by the back-titration method. For determination of the solid surface free energy components, the thin-layer wicking and contact-angle methods were used. On the basis of these results, components of solid surface free energy were calculated and discussed.

Open Access June 29, 2023

Study on Structure and Anti-UV Properties of Sericin Cocoons

Bin Zhou, Huiling Wang, Jumei Zhao, Jiali Chen, Hongtao Zhou

Page range: 193-199

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Abstract

Through biogenetic engineering, the posterior silk glands of Bombyx mori larvae are degenerated, and only the middle silk glands are retained to secrete sericin to produce sericin fibers, so as to obtain sericin cocoons with high sericin content (>98.5%). For this paper, sericin cocoons were studied, and the morphological structure characteristics and properties of sericin cocoons and common Bombyx mori cocoons were compared and analyzed through such modern test techniques as SEM, FTIR, and XRD. Results show that sericin cocoons have the basic morphological structure of cocoons, but because of the brittleness and hardness of sericin, the ssericin cocoons have poor integrity with a thermal decomposition rate that is higher than that of cocoons; the two cocoons are of a similar protein structure, with both α-helix and β-sheet structures, and dominantly the β-sheet structure; and the crystallinity of sericin cocoons (10.48%) is lower than that of the common Bombyx mori cocoons (27.10%). Sericin was extracted from both cocoons to obtain a mixed sericin solution respectively, which were coated on base fabrics of polyester taffeta (210T) for coating finish and subjected to qualitative research for their anti-UV properties. The base fabrics coated with mixed sericin solutions of sericin cocoons and Bombyx mori cocoons have an anti-UV performance index (UPF) of 23.9% and 22.5% respectively, which are higher than that of the base fabric (8.9%)..

Open Access June 2, 2022

Modeling of Material Characteristics of Conventional Synthetic Fabrics

Arkadiusz Bydełek, Maciej Berdychowski, Krzysztof Talaśka

Page range: 200-208

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Abstract

This article presents a method for modeling the material characteristics of synthetic fabrics based on static tensile test results with consideration of material orthotropy. Material characteristics were determined for fabrics under load at three different angles in relation to their orthotropy. The fabrics examined were the following: polyester fabrics Bratex and Ortalion, cotton fabric with nylon and elastin fabric (poplin), and Gore-Tex membrane fabric. Considering the material mechanical characteristics, the differences were in grammage, maximum strain, and tensile strength. The study allowed us to determine the nonlinear elastic dependency between strain and stress. Test results were implemented within the Abaqus/Explicit framework for the purpose of performance of verification simulations. The correlation between simulated and experimental results was established. A high degree of similarity allows us to classify the obtained material model as usable in simulation work.

Open Access September 26, 2021

Developing Real Avatars for the Apparel Industry and Analysing Fabric Draping in the Virtual Domain

Monika Balach, Agnieszka Cichocka, Iwona Frydrych, Marc Kinsella

Page range: 209-215

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Abstract

The youth of today are much more technologically adept than previous generations. This has led to many technological innovations, and the development of these innovations has in turn altered our perception of the world. The film, gaming, and clothing industries have been forced to embrace new technology to satisfy the demand of people for a more realistic virtual experience. These industries all rely on the use of 3D avatars to create virtual depictions of the human body. In the gaming and film industry, the accuracy of the avatar is not so critical. The avatars used in computer games and CGI sections of films have soft contours, which look visually appealing, but are not necessarily accurate to the human form. By contrast, the apparel industry needs to focus on creating very accurate avatars, which represent each person's body shape for virtual fitting to achieve realistic, well-fitted garments. This article describes the methods used to build an avatar and compares the draping between the following scenarios: the real avatar with a real garment, the real avatar with a virtual garment, and finally the virtual avatar with a virtual garment. This research will help to understand how the body shape can affect the virtual fit.

Open Access June 9, 2022

Investigation of Actual Phenomena and Auxiliary Ultrasonic Welding Parameters on Seam Strength of PVC-Coated Hybrid Textiles

Muktar Seid Hussen, Yordan Kostadinov Kyosev, Kathrin Pietsch, Jessica Boll, Abera Kechi Kabish

Page range: 216-237

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Abstract

A study of polyvinylchloride-coated woven polyester fabric welding potential was conducted using continuous ultrasonic welding machines. The effect of cooling air, anvil wheel status, anvil wheel width, material surface contact, and welding gap on seam strength was studied. Three main welding parameters with different levels were selected based on 5 and 10 mm welding widths using old and new anvil wheels with and without cooling air. A lapped type of seam was applied under full factorial design. A microstructure was captured to examine the formation of welding joints, and seam tensile properties were determined. Comparative analysis of comparable welding parameters was analyzed for a gap against pressure and amplitude against power. The actual weld phenomenon was also analyzed based on the recorded machine parameters. The results showed that auxiliary parameters had a significant effect on seam strength. A microscopic image of a welded seam indicated that cooling air reduced the number and size of holes produced. Weld seam with controlled pressure or power provided higher seam strength than that of the controlled gap or amplitude. The actual phenomenon of welding parameters was important to evaluate weld seam quality, whereby the obtained results indicated good quality at lower power and pressure.

Open Access March 30, 2022

Archaeology and Virtual Simulation Restoration of Costumes in the Han Xizai Banquet Painting

Kaixuan Liu, Hanhan Wu, Yuanyuan Gao, Chun Zhu, Yanbo Ji, Zhao Lü

Page range: 238-252

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Abstract

Based on 3D virtual fitting technology, this paper simulates and reproduces the fabric patterns and sewing processes of 12 characters’ costumes in different scenes on the basis of completing the archaeology of the characters’ costumes in the painting, so as to realize the 3D virtual sewing and digital simulation restoration of the characters costumes. This paper draws the style diagram, structure diagram and 3D virtual simulation diagram of the character costumes in the painting. The article further improves the research on the costumes of the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms, which has a certain reference value for the study of ancient character costumes and the promotion of Chinese garment culture. At the same time, it provides a reference for the design of artistic works such as character costumes in film and television and games.

Open Access June 29, 2023

Automatic Identification of Wrist Position in a Virtual Environment for Garment Design

Yu Chen, Qinhua Hou, Yan Hong, Weihong Gao

Page range: 253-265

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Abstract

With the development of virtual reality, computer-aided design has shown its strength in the garment product development process. Wrist position corresponds to the styloid process of the ulna (SPU). Due the problem that the SPU position is usually not the finest position of the forearm, the wrist position identification in the 3D clothing design is quite important. This paper proposes a method that uses a fixed-step search algorithm based on existing proportion methods to determine the position of the SPU. The accuracy and efficiency of the proposed method has been validated using 100 samples by comparison with the existing methods. It can be fully applied to a virtual 3D-to-2D garment prototyping process and ensure the automation of this process.

Open Access May 11, 2022

Development of the Smart T-Shirt for Monitoring Thermal Status of Athletes

Sandra Stojanović, Jelka Geršak, Suzana Uran

Page range: 266-278

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Abstract

Athletes are often subjected to a great physical strain during training and competition. Sport activities performed in hot and humid conditions may result in different heat illnesses with mild or fatal consequences. Against this background it is important to know the thermal state of athletes during physical activity. This article presents the development of a smart T-shirt for monitoring the thermal status of an athlete. The smart T-shirt was created by embedding an electronic system with temperature and humidity sensors that allows the measurement of temperature and the relative humidity of the microclimate. A smart T-shirt is comfortable, and integrated sensors and electronics do not affect wearing comfort. A good concurrence between the temperature and humidity results from using the smart T-shirt, and thus the medical device was achieved. Data obtained can be of great importance to the sports staff who will be able to monitor the athletes' thermal state during matches and competitions.

Open Access May 3, 2022

Assessment and Semantic Categorization of Fabric Visual Texture Preferences

Duje Kodžoman, Aleš Hladnik, Alenka Pavko Čuden, Vanja Čok

Page range: 279-291

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Abstract

The texture of a fabric can be perceived by the haptic and visual senses. Visual texture can be defined as a visual quality of a surface. It is an important phenomenon because it can be significant in many fields, such as textile design and e-commerce. At the same time, when we consider the semantics of the word, it is important to take into account that there are a variety of manifestations of fabrics (e.g., woven, knitted, etc.). The mechanism of visual texture perception of fabrics was investigated by measuring visual evaluation values. In our experiment, 12 textile samples with different surface textures are evaluated using thirty-four adjectives (Kansei words). For each visual texture, the adjectives with the highest mean ratings are extracted and analyzed. By using Hierarchical Cluster Analysis (HCA) and Principal Component Analysis (PCA), we aimed to discover and determine preferences for the visual texture of fabrics. The result is a semantic explanation of fabric texture with the adjectives proposed, which can help customers to evaluate the quality of the textile.

Open Access May 13, 2022

Numerical Prediction of the Heat Transfer in Air Gap of Different Garment Models

Yijie Zhang, Yexin Lyu, Jinying Wu, Tao Li, Fengyuan Zou

Page range: 292-299

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Abstract

This study aims to investigate the characteristics of heat transfer and its mechanism for styling a design garment differently, and to improve thermal comfort caused by clothing styling design, a computational fluid dynamics (CFD) approach has been used to perform numerical investigations of fluid flow and heat transfer across a clothing air gap. Relationships between the heat transfer from the body to clothing (computed by heat transfer equations) and the air gap were examined by body heat loss of different styles of garments. Also, the clothing temperature distribution of different garments was obtained and compared. Computed results reveal that the air gap can play a central role in the heat transfer from the body to the surface of different style garments. When the air gap is small enough, namely about 5 mm in the chest and bust of the X-type of clothing, the conductive heat flux can transfer through the air gap and reach the cloth surface easily, which will bring about the increase of temperature on the clothing surface. The decreasing air gap distance from 50 mm (O-type) to 10 mm (X-type) increases the convective heat flux by up to 25% on the waist. However, the airspeed will increase to greater numbers while the air gap decreases to narrow channels, and it will bring about fierce forced convection heat flux. So the heat transfer must be considered in the process of garment design, and the air gap should be kept at a suitable level. These findings can be used to improve the clothing’s thermal comfort or optimize the cloth structure.

Open Access June 29, 2023

Pressure Evaluation of Seamless Yoga Leggings Designed with Partition Structure

Weirong Wang, Xuliang Yu, Honglian Cong

Page range: 300-309

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Abstract

It is a novel approach to design the partition structure of clothing according to the deformation of the human body surface skin during exercise. The functional evaluation of these products remains unknown, and there is limited knowledge about the effects of the partition structure design on the pressure comfort of clothing. This research carried out a partitioned structural design of the leggings based on the skin deformation of the lower limbs of the human body during yoga exercise and developed two styles of seamless yoga leggings. The skin pressure exerted by the new seamless yoga leggings was compared with two commercial yoga leggings. Eight female college students were invited to wear all the yoga leggings samples and perform yoga exercises. The skin pressure exerted by yoga leggings was measured by the German novel-Pliance multipurpose pressure distribution measurement system on 10 body positions. The results showed that yoga leggings designed with a partitioned structure exert a comfortable pressure on the skin during yoga exercise, and the pressure change was smaller under different yoga postures, which has better pressure stability. The partition structure design model of seamless yoga leggings was optimized, which provided a reference for the functional partition design and product development of seamless yoga leggings.

Open Access May 27, 2022

Development of a Small, Covered Yarn Prototype

Yajing Shi, Taohai Yan, Shengbin Cao, Huimin Zhuang, Yu Lin, Lvtao Zhu, Dongdong Lu

Page range: 310-314

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Abstract

The rapid development of the textile industry has led to the demand for more advanced textile equipment because the current covering yarn machines are large and expensive and have a large physical footprint. Also, the current technology is unsuitable for most laboratory research and small factory proofing. In this paper, the principle of forming covered yarn is analyzed and simplified in three systems: the unwinding system, the covering system, and the winding system. A small sample of low volume and better flexibility is developed, the production process and primary structure of the covered yarn prototype are introduced, and the covering effect of the small prototype is debugged and analyzed.

Ahead of Print / Just Accepted

Ahead of Print / Just Accepted

Volume 23 (2023)

Volume 22 (2022)

Volume 21 (2021)

Volume 20 (2020)

Volume 19 (2019)

Volume 18 (2018)

Volume 17 (2017)

Volume 16 (2016)

Volume 15 (2015)

Volume 14 (2014)

Volume 13 (2013)

Volume 12 (2012)

Journal Impact Factor	1.1	2022, Journal Citation Reports (Clarivate, 2023)
5-year Journal Impact Factor	1.4	2022, Journal Citation Reports (Clarivate, 2023)
Journal Citation Indicator	0.44	2022, Journal Citation Reports (Clarivate, 2023)
CiteScore	2.6	2022, Scopus (Elsevier B.V., 2023)
SCImago Journal Rank	0.305	2022, SJR (Scimago Lab, 2023; Data Source: Scopus)
Source Normalized Impact per Paper	1.098	2022, CWTS Journal Indicators (CWTS B.V., 2023; Data Source: Scopus)

More information about journal rankings

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Open Access
AUTEX Research Journal is an Open Access Journal. Authors benefit from timely, detailed and critical peer review and rapid publication. All articles accepted for publication in the journal will be published under a CC-BY License.
Thanks to Open Access all articles are freely available worldwide. An Article Processing Charge will apply.
The current Article Processing Charge is €1500. First named authors affiliated with accredited institutional members of AUTEX are entitled to a discounted rate of €1000. For further information on Article Processing Charges and the journal’s waiver policy please see the AUT APC Guide.

Editorial

Editor-in-Chief
Raul Fangueiro, University of Minho, Portugal
E-Mail: rfangueiro@dem.uminho.pt

Associate Editors
Diana P. Ferreira, University of Minho, Portugal
Maryam Naebe, Deakin University Australia
Pierre Ouagne, Université de Bretagne Sud, France

Editorial Board
Ilze Baltina, Riga Technical University, Latvia
Mirela Blaga, IASI University, Romania
Lucía Capablanca Francés, Universitat Politècnica de València, Spain
Omar Cherkaoui, School of Textile and Clothing industries, Morroco
Ada Ferri, Politecnico di Torino, Italy
Recep Eren, Bursa Uludag University, Turkey
Jelka Geršak, University of Maribor, Slovenia
Amine Haj Taieb, The University of Sfax, Tunisia
Anica Hursa Sajatovic, University of Zagreb, Croatia
Nawar Kadi, University of Borås, Sweden
Olena Kyzymchuk, Kyiv National University of Technologies and Design, Ukraine
Daiva Mikučionienė, Kaunas University of Technology, Lithuania
Stelios Mitilineos, University of West Attica, Greece
Yasir Nawab, National Textile Univesity, Pakistan
Barbara Simončič, University of Ljubljana, Slovenia
Snezana Stankovic, University of Belgrade, Serbia
George Stylios, Heriot-Watt University, Scotland
Valentina Trovato, University of Bergamo, Italy
Peng Wang, University of Haute-Alsace, France
Xin Wang, RMIT University, Australia
Xungai Wang, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong

(Deutsch)

Type: Journal
Language: English
Publisher: De Gruyter Open Access
First published: October 19, 2012