Open Access Published since October 19, 2012

AUTEX Research Journal

The Journal of Association of Universities for Textiles (AUTEX)

ISSN: 2300-0929

Editor-in-chief: Raul Fangueiro

Edited by: Diana P. Ferreira, Maryam Naebe, Ramaswamy Nagarajan, Pierre Ouagne

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About this journal

AUTEX Research Journal is published by De Gruyter on behalf of the Association of Universities for Textiles (AUTEX)

Objective

The AUTEX Research Journal (AUT) is a leading open access, peer reviewed scientific journal dedicated to textile science and technology. AUT disseminates high-quality scientific knowledge related to textile-based materials and products, including topics like fibers, fibrous structures, functionalization, design, and manufacturing. Due to their unique properties and behaviour, fiber-based materials, in general, have substantially enlarged their range of applications in areas like health care and well-being, aeronautics and aerospace, defence, architecture, building and sports. In fact, the possibility of tuning their properties from nano to macro scale to obtain multifunctional and smart textiles is opening new opportunities to develop advanced solutions, traditional and non-traditional applications.

Topics

AUTEX Research Journal accepts high level scientific contributions on the following topics:

Advanced Fibres and Materials
Innovative Functional Textiles
Technical Textiles, Composites and Membranes
Protective Textiles
Medical Textiles, Tissue Engineering, Implants
Smart, Interactive and Multifunctional Textiles
Textile Processing,
Innovative Textile Structures
Nanotechnology, Nanotextiles, Electrospinning
Biopolymers and Biotechnology
Surface Functionalization and Coating
Textile and Clothing Machinery
Textile Testing, Measuring Technology
CAD/CAE-Technology, Mass Customisation
Modelling and Simulation
Comfort Science
Ecological and Environmental Textiles, Recycling and Life Cycle Analysis

Article Formats

We welcome submission of original research articles and invited review articles.

Your Benefits

One of the few journals dealing with textiles research at a global level
Clear review and publishing procedure
Open Access publication, ensuring widest possible dissemination of your research
Discounted APCs for AUTEX Association members
Authorized journal of AUTEX – The Association of Universities for Textiles

History

AUTEX Research Journal was previously published by Sciendo.

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Supplementary Materials

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Volume 23 Issue 1

March 2023

Open Access September 26, 2021

Modeling Lean and Six Sigma Integration using Deep Learning: Applied to a Clothing Company

Raja Elboq, Mouhsene Fri, Mustapha Hlyal, Jamila El Alami

Page range: 1-10

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Abstract

Implementation of Lean and Six Sigma methodologies enable companies to boost their competitiveness and their efficiency. However, the adoption of these approaches is very much restricted in the Textile and Clothing sector in Morocco. In fact, despite all the advances in these methodologies and practical approaches, defining a rational implementation strategy such as the adequate chronology and the prediction of the expected success level are still a part of a fierce debate and an impediment for practitioners. The result is that only 11 companies out of 1,200 Moroccan clothing companies have successfully implemented Lean and Six Sigma. This article, based on an intelligent model, draws up a support tool to the clothing stakeholders, or otherwise aims to successfully integrate Lean and Six Sigma using Deep Learning. The neural network was trained for the prediction of success level rate and customizing of Lean and Six Sigma implementation chronology with the help of weights and maturity of a set of common critical success factors (CSFs). These CFSs were selected as input data. Then, the dataset have been used for training, testing, and validating the neural network model. To evaluate the trained network, 25% of the data have been used and a tuning hyperparameter process has been designed to reinforce the model performance. For the performance indices such as Categorical Cross Entropy (CCE), the defined loss function, accuracy, and precision have been evaluated and optimized. The developed model can then define the adequate chronology and predict success level with an accuracy of 97%. The trained neural network was then applied to a clothing company as a guide to the success of its continuous improvement project.

Open Access September 18, 2021

Comparative Analysis of Structure and Properties of Stereoscopic Cocoon and Flat Cocoon

Bin Zhou, Huiling Wang, Hongtao Zhou, Ke Wang, Shudong Wang, Wenlong Zhou

Page range: 11-17

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Abstract

Cocoon is a kind of natural biopolymer material with reasonable structure and various functions. However, its structure and functions are often destroyed in practical application. In this study, we took common Bombyx Mori as the research object, and provided different cocooning sites for single or multiple silkworms to construct common stereoscopic cocoons (“normal cocoons” [NC]) and flat cocoons (“single-silkworm flat cocoons” [SFC] and “multi-silkworm flat cocoons” [MFC]), respectively, and compared the morphological structure and basic properties of these cocoons. The study found that the flat cocoons have similar multi-layered variable structure and characteristics compared to those of the common cocoons; also, morphological characteristics and physical and chemical properties of silk fiber from outer layer to inner layer, such as sericin content, fiber fineness, and change rule of basic mechanical properties, are completely consistent with those of the common cocoons. It can be considered that the flat cocoons are constructed by silkworms in the same “procedural” process as that of common cocoons. Due to the expansion of cocooning space, the mechanical properties of fibers are significantly improved. By controlling the size of the cocooning space or the quantity of silkworms cocooning simultaneously, and the time of spinning, a cocoon material with controllable thickness, weight per square meter, porosity, and number of cocoon layers can be obtained as a composite material for direct application.

Open Access July 2, 2021

Textronic Solutions Used for Premature Babies: A Review

Karolina Wilgocka, Ewa Skrzetuska, Izabella Krucińska, Witold Sujka

Page range: 18-28

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Abstract

Premature birth is considered to be a substantial problem in perinatal medicine, which in the vast majority of cases (>60%), concerns African and South Asian countries. Nevertheless, prematurity is a global problem and is faced by both less-developed (where 12% of babies are prematurely born) and well-developed countries (with 9% prematurity rate) [1, 2]. The percentage of children born prematurely, i.e., before the 37th week of pregnancy, was 8.7% in Europe, while, in Poland, it was 7.34% [3]. Care of prematurely born babies is a huge challenge for parents and medical staff in the neonatal intensive care unit. Preterm infants, because of their low weight and gestational age, are prone to health problems and even death. For this reason, continuous monitoring of health parameters plays an important role. It is achieved by the use of various sensors that are inserted in infants’ garments. Sensor systems monitor an infant’s health condition, and then the data are transmitted to doctors or parents. This article is for illustrative purposes, aimed at presenting solutions such as the use of sensors for monitoring infants’ physiological parameters.

Open Access November 7, 2021

Analysis of Heat Transfer through a Protective Clothing Package

Paulina Gilewicz, Damian Obidowski, Krzysztof Sobczak, Iwona Frydrych, Agnieszka Cichocka

Page range: 29-38

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Abstract

The protective clothing packages, which protect the human body against hot factors in a foundry are in continuous development to increase their resistance and comfort of use. The problem of heat transfer through textiles is the active field of research and reliable numerical modeling of this process can be helpful to design high-quality protective products. Therefore, the numerical model of heat transfer through the package based on the aluminized basalt fabric was developed. The macroscopic geometry of weft and warp threads was reproduced in agreement with samples of plain weave basalt fabric. Mapping the stochastically distributed individual monofilaments in basalt threads, as well as modeling the heat transfer between them, was impossible at the microscopic level. Therefore, the weft and warp threads were modeled as a porous material with a homogeneous distribution of basalt and air in their structure. Data from measurements of the bare and aluminized basalt fabrics by the Alambeta device were used to determine the model parameters. The model was used to simulate the heat transfer through the protective package composed of the aluminized basalt fabric, wool clothing, and cotton underwear. A good agreement of model results was found for measurement results in such a package. The presented procedure allowed for the determination of the main thermal properties of tested basalt fabrics.

Open Access December 22, 2021

Comfort-Related Properies of Cotton Seersucker Fabrics

Malgorzata Matusiak

Page range: 39-47

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Abstract

This work concerns the comfort-related properties of seersucker woven fabrics made of cotton. Seersucker woven fabrics are characterized by alternating puckered and flat strips in the warp direction. Some researchers consider that due to this structure seersucker fabrics are characterized by very good comfort-related properties. In this work seersucker fabrics with differing repeats of the seersucker effect and different weft yarns were investigated in intense heat and high moisture transfer. Results showed that the structural factors significantly influence the comfort-related properties of the investigated cotton fabrics.

Open Access April 1, 2022

Application of Coating Mixture Based on Silica Aerogel to Improve Thermal Protective Performance of Fabrics

Pamela Miśkiewicz, Magdalena Tokarska, Iwona Frydrych

Page range: 48-54

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Abstract

The main aim of this research is to improve the protective thermal performance of fabrics. Flame-resistant fabrics characterizing comparable thermal properties were chosen, cotton fabric with a flame-retardant finish and Nomex ® fabric. To improve thermal parameters the coating mixture, based on silica aerogel, was applied on one side of the sample surface. Parameters such as the thermal conductivity, resistance to contact, and radiant heat were determined based on the standards, which set high expectations for the protective clothing. Analysis of the coated fabrics surfaces was conducted based on confocal microscopy. It was found that the coating mixture caused a decrease in thermal conductivity. All the modified fabrics reached 1st efficiency level of protection against contact and radiant heat. The best sample from the point of view of protection against contact and radiant heat was modified cotton fabric with a flame-retardant finish. The coating mixture contained 45 wt% of silica aerogel. Moreover, better adhesion of the coating mixture to the cotton fabric compared with Nomex ® fabric was observed.

Open Access December 22, 2021

A Calculation Method for the Deformation Behavior of Warp-Knitted Fabric

Haisang Liu, Gaoming Jiang, Zhijia Dong, Shuai Jin

Page range: 55-65

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Abstract

In this paper, a new method to simulate the structure and loop deformation behavior of double-bar reflex-lapping warp-knitted fabrics based on the structural characteristics is proposed. A simplified mass-spring model was built in which loops knitted by filaments were considered as particles with the uniform mass distribution connected by structure springs for overlaps and shear springs for underlaps. Deformation forces and direction on particles were analyzed to describe the displacement and deformation behavior of particles. A loop model with eight control points was established, and the relationship between control points and particles was studied combining the quadratic Bezier curves. The deformation simulation was implemented by a simulator program with C# and JavaScript via web technology on Visual Studio 2015. The stereoscopic sense of filaments was realized by changing the direction and intensity of the light. The results show that the fabric deformation and the loop shape can be accurately achieve using the simplified mass-spring model compared with the real sample.

Open Access September 26, 2021

Blend Electrospinning of Poly(Ɛ-Caprolactone) and Poly(Ethylene Glycol-400) Nanofibers Loaded with Ibuprofen as a Potential Drug Delivery System for Wound Dressings

Tabinda Riaz, Nabyl Khenoussi, Delia Mihaela Rata, Leonard Ionut Atanase, Dominique C. Adolphe, Christelle Delaite

Page range: 66-76

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Abstract

Electrospinning (ES) is a versatile and diverse technique to fabricate nano and micro fibers that could be utilized as drug delivery systems. The aim of this research was the fabrication and characterization of drug loaded nanofibrous scaffold produced by single-needle ES using poly(Ɛ-caprolactone) (PCL) and poly(ethylene glycol-400) (PEG) and to investigate the potential of this material as a drug delivery system. A model drug, Ibuprofen (IBU), was used. Ibuprofen is a medicine that is a non-steroidal, anti-inflammatory drug (NSAID). Two concentrations of IBU, 5 wt% and 7 wt%, were incorporated for the ES of PCL and PCL/PEG nanofibers. Characterization of nanofibers was done by using Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM), Differential Scanning Calorimeter (DSC), Thermogravimetric Analysis (TGA), and Water Contact Angle Measurements. The impact of IBU on nanofibers’ properties such as morphology, diameters, hydrophilicity, and tensile strength was investigated. Finally, the drug release kinetics of IBU from nanofibers was analyzed and their percentage release efficiency of IBU (RE%) was determined by UV-vis spectroscopy during 24 h.

Open Access October 15, 2021

Effect of Different Yarn Combinations on Auxetic Properties of Plied Yarns

Mine Akgun, Recep Eren, Fatih Suvari, Tugba Yurdakul

Page range: 77-88

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Abstract

This study presents the effects of a novel plied yarn structure consisting of different yarn components and yarn twist levels on the Poisson's ratio and auxetic behavior of yarns. The plied yarn structures are formed with bulky and soft yarn components (helical plied yarn [HPY], braided yarn, and monofilament latex yarn) and stiff yarn components (such as high tenacity [HT] and polyvinyl chloride [PVC]-coated polyester yarns) to achieve auxetic behavior. Experimental results showed that as the level of yarn twist increased, the Poisson's ratios and the tensile modulus values of the plied yarns decreased, but the elongation values increased. A negative Poisson's ratio (NPR) was obtained in HT–latex and PVC–latex plied yarns with a low twist level. The plied yarns formed with braid–HPY and braid–braid components gave partial NPR under tension. A similar result was achieved for yarns with HT–latex and PVC–latex components. Since partial NPR was seen in novel plied yarns with braided and HPY components, it is concluded that yarns formed with bulky–bulky yarn components could give an auxetic performance under tension.

Open Access April 8, 2022

A Biomimetic Approach to Protective Glove Design: Inspirations from Nature and the Structural Limitations of Living Organisms

Emilia Irzmańska, Aleksandra Jastrzębska, Marek Michalski

Page range: 89-102

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Abstract

Drawing inspiration from nature for the design of new technological solutions and smart materials constitutes an important development area for engineers and researchers in many disciplines. Biomimetic materials design brings numerous benefits, especially the possibility of implementing promising interdisciplinary projects based on effective existing solutions that have emerged in the course of natural evolution. A major aspect of biomimetic materials design, especially relevant to protective gloves, is the identification of an optimum combination of the physicochemical properties and microstructural characteristics of a surface with a view to its potential applications. Properties such as wetting and adhesion can be adjusted by modifications of the surface morphology both on micro- and nanoscales. From the standpoint of the occupational safety performance of polymeric protective gloves, biomimetic materials should exhibit two crucial properties: reversible adhesion (via a large number of contact points) and hydrophobicity (water repellence). This review analyzes the superhydrophobic and reversible adhesion patterns found in nature that can be used to improve the properties of polymeric protective gloves with major commercial implications.

Open Access November 7, 2021

Study on the Thermal and Impact Resistance Properties of Micro PA66/PU Synergistically Reinforced Multi-Layered Biaxial Weft Knitted Fabric Composites

Yexiong Qi, Waqar Iqbal, Runze Shao, Yanjin Shi

Page range: 103-109

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Abstract

In this paper, the influence of micro PA66/PU in multi-layered biaxial weft knitted (MBWK) fabric reinforced composites on thermal and impact resistance was studied. The main objective was to investigate the role of micro PA66/PU in terms of improving material performance. The results showed that the addition of micro PA66/PU improved the thermal stability of the MBWK composite. It is observed that the onset degradation temperatures increased by 1.6°C in thermo-gravimetric analysis (TGA) test and the Tg increased by 2.8°C in the dynamic mechanical analysis (DMA) test. Besides, the impact energy absorption of composites increased by 5.3% after the addition of micro PA66/PU. The addition of micro PA66/PU effectively reduced the impact damage area from the failure morphology after impact. In simple words, the addition of micro PA66/PU effectively improves the comprehensive properties of composites.

Open Access December 5, 2021

FEA-Based Structural Heat Transfer Characteristic of 3-D Orthogonal Woven Composite Subjected to the Non-Uniform Heat Load

Qian Ma, Ke Wang, Shudong Wang, Hongtao Zhou, Limin Jin, Honglei Yi, Xianyan Wu

Page range: 110-115

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Abstract

The thermodynamic behavior of 3-D orthogonal woven composite is studied to explore its structural heat transfer mechanism in a non-uniform heat load field based on finite element analysis (FEA). The temperature distribution characteristics of the resin matrix and the fabric reinforcement are observed to compare the heat absorption. Furthermore, the dynamic expansion and distribution characteristics of temperature in the 3-D orthogonal woven composite structure have also been quantitatively studied, together with simultaneously obtaining the path characteristics of the heat transfer in each system (i.e., warp yarns, weft yarns, and Z-yarns). In addition, the spatial temperature distribution characteristics of each yarn system in the fabric reinforcement are also explored. Thus, the structural mechanism of heat conduction for 3-D orthogonal woven composite is obtained.

Open Access December 11, 2021

A Study on the Woven Construction of Fabric Dyed With Natural Indigo Dye and Finishing for Applying to Product Design for Home Textile Products

Rungsima Chollakup, Nattadon Rungruangkitkrai, Thanyachol Apipatpapha, Suteera Witayakran, Nattawat Nithithongsakol, Rattanaphol Mongkholrattanasit

Page range: 116-125

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Abstract

This research aims to study woven fabric construction with natural indigo dyeing with finishing for home textile applications. The physical and mechanical properties, including color fastness tests, of these woven fabrics according to ISO standards for home textiles exported to the European Union were characterized. Tensile strength, tear strength, and pilling resistance of these woven fabrics were appropriate to design, and had enough strength for bed linens, duvet covers, and pillowcases. The color fastness to washing, water, and light of these woven fabrics passed the requirements for bed linens and pillowcases, except for color fastness to wet rubbing, due to the low performance of natural dyestuff. Thus, a finishing technique of water repellency was applied to improve these properties. This design of natural fiber fabrics dyed with natural indigo was developed for home textile products whose fabrics were produced by community enterprise. These home textile products can be used as a collection prototype for a spa room in a hotel.

Open Access May 27, 2022

Effect of Surface Modification of Himalayan Nettle Fiber and Characterization of the Morphology, Physical and Mechanical Properties

R Deepa, K Kumaresan, K Saravanan

Page range: 126-131

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Abstract

The process of retting bast fiber plants for the production of long fiber has presented major challenges. Water retting, dew retting, chemical extraction, and micro-organism (fungi, enzymes) techniques were applied to the extraction of natural fibers. The two nettle samples were extracted with water retting for 14 days and dew retting for 4 weeks. This research investigated the effects on the traditional retting process of nettle fiber by fungi and bacteria formation in lignocellulosic. The latter biological extraction methods successfully degraded the lignin and pectin materials of the fiber and increases the cellulose content. These extraction methods produced high quality fiber and tensile strength at a low cost. This study determined the chemical, physical, and mechanical characteristics such as fiber cellulose, non-cellulosic content, tensile strength, tenacity, and elongation break to see how treatments affected them. The treated fiber surface morphology was characterized using scanning electron microscopy. To evaluate functional group alterations, Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy was used on the fiber specimen.

Open Access December 5, 2021

Nondestructive Test Technology Research for Yarn Linear Density Unevenness

Bin Zhou, Huiling Wang, Ke Wang, Jumei Zhao, Hongtao Zhou, Shihui Huang

Page range: 132-141

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Abstract

Yarn linear density and linear density unevenness between fragments involve the mass and mass variation of yarn per unit length, which are important indices to reflect the uniformity of yarn thickness. Aiming at the shortcomings of the traditional testing method, which uses a yarn length tester to test these indices by counting length first and then cutting and measuring weight, a testing device that measures weight and counts length synchronously is designed and developed, so that the yarn can be continuous, recyclable, and reusable. Length counting is conducted by a length-counting disk connected to a photoelectric coded disk, and the result of length counting can be accurate to 0.01 m. The original skein frame with a perimeter of 1 m is replaced, so that the error caused by yarn overlapping is avoided. Through program control, the testing of a plurality of groups of linear density values can be completed at one time to calculate the linear density unevenness of different fragments of yarn, and the yarn can be led to a recovery spool through a yarn guide cylinder to form a new package. Polyester/viscose 65/35 blended yarn was taken as a test sample and subjected to statistical analysis using SPSS software. It is found that the results of the newly developed device are closer to the arbitration value; the whole experiment is completed at one time, which avoids the secondary error and reduces the labor intensity; and the raw materials can be recycled, which saves labor and raw material costs. The device has high value for industrialization and popularization.

Ahead of Print / Just Accepted

Ahead of Print / Just Accepted

Volume 23 (2023)

Issue 1

Volume 22 (2022)

Volume 21 (2021)

Volume 20 (2020)

Volume 19 (2019)

Volume 18 (2018)

Volume 17 (2017)

Volume 16 (2016)

Volume 15 (2015)

Volume 14 (2014)

Volume 13 (2013)

Volume 12 (2012)

5-year Journal Impact Factor	1.929
CiteScore	2.2
Journal Impact Factor	1.944
Journal Citation Indicator	0.51
SCImago Journal Rank	0.351
Source Normalized Impact per Paper	0.989

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Please submit your manuscript via the AUTEX Research Journal Manuscript submission system:
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Before submitting your manuscript, please ensure you have read the journals objectives to make sure that the topic of your contribution is relevant to this journal and that your article is formatted according to the Instructions for Authors document.

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Do not submit work that has been submitted elsewhere or has been published previously
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Open Access
AUTEX Research Journal is an Open Access Journal. Authors benefit from timely, detailed and critical peer review and rapid publication. All articles accepted for publication in the journal will be published under a CC-BY License.
Thanks to Open Access all articles are freely available worldwide. An Article Processing Charge will apply.
The current Article Processing Charge is €1500. First named authors affiliated with accredited institutional members of AUTEX are entitled to a discounted rate of €1000. For further information on Article Processing Charges and the journal’s waiver policy please see the AUT APC Guide.

Editorial

Editor-in-Chief
Raul Fangueiro, University of Minho, Portugal
E-Mail: rfangueiro@dem.uminho.pt

Associate Editors
Diana P. Ferreira, University of Minho, Portugal
Maryam Naebe, Deakin University Australia
Ramaswamy Nagarajan, UMASS LOWELL, USA
Pierre Ouagne, Université de Bretagne Sud, France

Editorial Board
Ilze Baltina, Riga Technical University, Latvia
Mirela Blaga, IASI University, Romania
Lucía Capablanca Francés, Universitat Politècnica de València, Spain
Omar Cherkaoui, School of Textile and Clothing industries, Morroco
Ada Ferri, Politecnico di Torino, Italy
Recep Eren, Bursa Uludag University, Turkey
Jelka Geršak, University of Maribor, Slovenia
Amine Haj Taieb, The University of Sfax, Tunisia
Anica Hursa Sajatovic, University of Zagreb, Croatia
Nawar Kadi, University of Borås, Sweden
Daiva Mikučionienė, Kaunas University of Technology, Lithuania
Stelios Mitilineos, University of West Attica, Greece
Yasir Nawab, National Textile Univesity, Pakistan
Barbara Simončič, University of Ljubljana, Slovenia
Snezana Stankovic, University of Belgrade, Serbia
George Stylios, Heriot-Watt University, Scotland
Valentina Trovato, University of Bergamo, Italy
Peng Wang, University of Haute-Alsace, France
Xungai Wang, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong

(Deutsch)

Type: Journal
Language: English
Publisher: De Gruyter Open Access
First published: October 19, 2012