Published by transcript Verlag

Fashion Studies

Edited by: Gertrud Lehnert

Volumes

Book Open Access 2023

Modenetze - Modeschwärme

Kleidungskulturen ohne zentrale Akteure

Anna Kamneva-Wortmann

Volume 12 in this series

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Modemacher*innen, Designer*innen, Influencer*innen, Medien, Subkulturen - noch immer wird die Verantwortung für den modischen Wandel bei zentralen Schlüsselfiguren gesucht. Doch die Gatekeeper*innen der Vergangenheit haben viel von ihrer Definitionsmacht verloren. Was also treibt Moden gegenwärtig voran? Die Initiative scheint auf eine große Zahl Einzelner übergegangen, deren Vielfalt vestimentäre Kulturen hervorbringt, die sich als räumliche Modenetze und zeitliche Modeschwärme beschreiben lassen. Anna Kamneva-Wortmann bietet eine neue Perspektive auf die modische Demokratisierung und behauptet: Kleidermoden entstehen und verschwinden heute »bottom-up«.

DOI:: https://doi.org/10.0000/9783839468005
ISBN:: 9783839468005
Subject:: Cultural Studies
Subject:: Media Studies
Subject:: Media Theory
Publisher:: transcript Verlag

Book Open Access 2021

Bally - A History of Footwear in the Interwar Period

Anna-Brigitte Schlittler, Katharina Tietze, SNF

Volume 10 in this series

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Carl Franz Bally founded a shoe factory in Switzerland in 1851. Within decades, the Bally name had achieved worldwide recognition for its high-quality footwear. The history of modern footwear can be traced through the lens of Bally's corporate evolution. This book brings together the results of research on such topics as the economic importance of fashion, Bally's fortunes in the US, the career of shoe design, the sourcing and use of materials, and the rise of strategic product display. The research focuses on the 1930s and 1940s: years of economic crisis and war, characterized by a wide diversity of designs and increasing variety in product range. Shortages also led to experiments with materials and technical innovations. Featuring numerous points of contact with adjacent fields of historical study, this publication marks a contribution to the history of fashion as the history of industrially manufactured products.

DOI:: https://doi.org/10.1515/9783839457382
ISBN:: 9783839457382
Subject:: Social Sciences
Subject:: Sociology
Subject:: Culture
Publisher:: transcript Verlag

Book 2019

Die Begradigung der Taillenkontur in der Männermode

Julia Burde

Volume 9 in this series

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Men with laced waists, bodies made of cotton wool and fabric shaped by tailors - this magic gave way to the modern pragmatism of body-distant fits.

DOI:: https://doi.org/10.1515/9783839449400
ISBN:: 9783839449400
Subject:: Cultural Studies
Subject:: Topics in Cultural Studies
Subject:: Popular Culture
Publisher:: transcript Verlag

Book 2019

Die Präsenz der Dinge

Anthropomorphe Artefakte in Kunst, Mode und Literatur

Jana Scholz, Potsdam Graduate School

Volume 8 in this series

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They look at us, move, and speak: humanoid artefacts. Jana Scholz discusses why they can appear alive to us.

DOI:: https://doi.org/10.1515/9783839448175
ISBN:: 9783839448175
Subject:: Cultural Studies
Subject:: Topics in Cultural Studies
Subject:: Popular Culture
Publisher:: transcript Verlag

Book 2016

Ist Mode queer?

Neue Perspektiven der Modeforschung

Gertrud Lehnert, Maria Weilandt

Volume 7 in this series

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Can Fashion Be Queer? The combination of clothing, accessories and styles has long since become standard in fashion, along with unisex as a trend of urban fashion design. Can the concept of queerness then be applied to fashion in any way? If it is possible to use objects and styles to constantly shift and re-constitute meaning in a fashion context, do such acts then also have the potential to make codes such as gender ambiguous and to set them in motion? This volume presents systematic reflections and exemplary analyses on the relationship between queerness and fashion in a German-language context for the first time, in the process, opening up fashion, gender and queer studies to new perspectives.

DOI:: https://doi.org/10.1515/9783839434901
ISBN:: 9783839434901
Subject:: Social Sciences
Subject:: Sociology
Subject:: Sociology, other
Publisher:: transcript Verlag

Book 2016

Über Schuhe

Zur Geschichte und Theorie der Fußbekleidung

Anna-Brigitte Schlittler, Katharina Tietze

Volume 6 in this series

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Shoes are much more than a functional and fashionable covering of the foot. As an integral part of material culture, they also highlight historical, social and cultural changes and schisms. With the use of themes such as foot health, material innovations and design, the contributions in this volume address the shoe as an object of fashion theory. Based on a research project on the shoes of the Swiss company Firma Bally, the volume deals with men and women's shoes, high fashion accessories and functional footwear, the lack of shoes, as well as the variety of models and the economic history of the shoe industry.

DOI:: https://doi.org/10.1515/9783839434307
ISBN:: 9783839434307
Subject:: Cultural Studies
Subject:: Topics in Cultural Studies
Subject:: Popular Culture
Publisher:: transcript Verlag

Book 2015

Modenschauen

Die Behauptung des Neuen in der Mode

Alicia Kühl

Volume 5 in this series

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How does novelty in fashion come about? Alicia Kühl shows that novelty is no longer claimed in fashion design, but in fashion show design. Her work in fashion theory, drawing, among other things, upon theories of performance, of space, and of atmospheres, investigates fashion shows of select Haute-Couture and Prêt-à-Porter designers of the last 30 years and retraces to what extent the atmospheres created there are employed as a solution to a vestimentary crisis of invention (»Inventionsbredouille«). For the first time, this study questions the function and position of fashion shows within the cycle of fashion, which also entails a reevaluation of the role of clothing.

DOI:: https://doi.org/10.1515/transcript.9783839428856
ISBN:: 9783837628852
ISBN:: 9783839428856
Subject:: Cultural Studies
Subject:: Topics in Cultural Studies
Subject:: Popular Culture
Publisher:: transcript Verlag

Book 2015

Kleiderfragen

Mode und Kulturwissenschaft

Christa Gürtler, Eva Hausbacher

Volume 4 in this series

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Fashion goes Science: Fashion is an interface between the individual and society, and at the same time a seismograph for societal changes. Plenty of material for scientific analyses!

DOI:: https://doi.org/10.1515/9783839428191
ISBN:: 9783837628197
ISBN:: 9783839428191
Subject:: Cultural Studies
Subject:: Topics in Cultural Studies
Subject:: Popular Culture
Publisher:: transcript Verlag

Book 2015

Die Medialität der Mode

Kleidung als kulturelle Praxis. Perspektiven für eine Modewissenschaft

Rainer Wenrich, Harold Koda

Volume 3 in this series

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From the catwalk to the wardrobe - or to the visual arts, to architecture, to politics: Fashion as a cultural practice has a great variety of contact points!

DOI:: https://doi.org/10.1515/9783839425596
ISBN:: 9783837625592
ISBN:: 9783839425596
Subject:: Cultural Studies
Subject:: Topics in Cultural Studies
Subject:: Popular Culture
Publisher:: transcript Verlag

Book 2014

Modetheorie

Klassische Texte aus vier Jahrhunderten

Gertrud Lehnert, Alicia Kühl, Katja Weise

Volume 2 in this series

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Was ist Mode? Wozu Mode? Seit Jahrhunderten erklären Theoretiker und Theoretikerinnen auf unterschiedlichste Weise dieses facettenreiche Phänomen, das die modernen Gesellschaften prägt wie kaum ein anderes. Der Reader versammelt eine repräsentative Auswahl von modetheoretischen Originaltexten vom 18. Jahrhundert bis in die Gegenwart, die mode- und diskursgeschichtlich eingeordnet und erläutert werden.
Der Band ist ein unverzichtbares Arbeitsbuch für Studium, Lehre, Forschung und Praxis.

DOI:: https://doi.org/10.1515/transcript.9783839422502
ISBN:: 9783837622508
ISBN:: 9783839422502
Subject:: Cultural Studies
Subject:: Topics in Cultural Studies
Subject:: Popular Culture
Publisher:: transcript Verlag

Book 2013

Mode

Theorie, Geschichte und Ästhetik einer kulturellen Praxis (2., unveränderte Auflage 2015)

Gertrud Lehnert

Volume 1 in this series

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DOI:: https://doi.org/10.1515/transcript.9783839421956
ISBN:: 9783837621945
ISBN:: 9783839421956
Subject:: Architecture and Design
Subject:: Architecture and Design, other
Publisher:: transcript Verlag