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Acta Facultatis Medicae Naissensis

The Journal of Faculty of Medicine in Nis

4 Issues per year

Cite Score 2016: 0.25

SCImago Journal Rank (SJR) 2015: 0.109
Source Normalized Impact per Paper (SNIP) 2015: 0.124

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Investigation of the Effects of Different Emollients on the Structure and Skin Moisturizing Potential of the Cosmetic Creams

Dragana Stojiljković / Ivana Arsic / Marija Tasić Kostov / Zoran Jovanović / Vanja Tadić / Sofija Đorđević
Published Online: 2013-12-31 | DOI: https://doi.org/10.2478/afmnai-2013-0011


In this study we investigated the effects of four emollients (cetearyl octanoate, decyl oleate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate and olive oil) incorporated at a concentration of 10% on the structural properties of the cosmetic oil/water (o/w) creams (creams K1-K4, respectively) as well as the in vivo effects of those creams on pH and hydration level of the healthy volunteer’s skin after a single application.

Creams’ structure was investigated throughout polarization microscopy. Anisotropic structures were found, i.e. stabilization of creams’ structure was performed by forming lamellar gel-crystalline and liquid-crystalline phase, different for different creams, which was probably caused by the presence of different emollients.

The effects of creams (K1-K4) on skin hydration level and pH (30, 90, 150 and 300min after single application) were examined using Multi Probe Adapter (MPA®9, Courage& Khazaka Electronic, Germany), with appropriate sonde, Corneometer® CM 825 for measuring capacitance as a measure of skin moisture level, while the skin pH was measured using Skin-pH-Meter, PH 900 sonde.The results indicate that the presence of the different emollients in o/w creams (10%) led to the creams'different effects on the skin hydration level. Cream with decyl oleate leads to a good initial hydration effect and probably rapid release of large amounts of water from the cream. Creams containing both C12-C15 alkyl benzoate or olive oil had a weaker initial effect on the skin moisture, showing good occlusive properties. A cream containing 10% cetearyl octanoate showed the lowest skin hydration potential.

Keywords: emollients; hydrophilic creams; liquid-crystalline phase; skin hydration

Ključne reči: emolijensi; hidrofilni kremovi; tečno-kristalna faza; vlažnost kože

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About the article

Published Online: 2013-12-31

Published in Print: 2013-12-01

Citation Information: Acta Facultatis Medicae Naissensis, ISSN (Print) 2217-2521, DOI: https://doi.org/10.2478/afmnai-2013-0011.

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